jeffd
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Post by jeffd on Sept 7, 2016 5:18:02 GMT
I find it interesting that there is so much variance between one side and the other of that laser cut hole. Never had such stuff done, but that's a cool factoid. It would have been more of a fuss, but my reamer is right on the pegboard in front of me when I'm working. It took me a while to assure myself I wasn't doing it wrong... but then I just fixed the problem and moved on. Fitment is still very tight; I didn't want them wobbling in the hole. You know, those M5x16s do look so much better in there. When I was putting those on I was wondering why the screws needed to be so long. Now I know... whoops. haha! I count 274 pieces on your hardware matrix. Ok, even with the homing and rigidity kits I guess we are a bit shy of 5000. Jeff
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 7, 2016 11:18:19 GMT
Ya there was definitely a focal issue or something. Blows my mind. Taper is more often expected in really thick plates. Either way, we really appreciate you mentioning it.
Ah ok so those were the M5x25s. I'm glad we got it now or else the frame construction just wasn't gonna work.
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kb9jlo
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Posts: 73
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Post by kb9jlo on Sept 7, 2016 18:57:27 GMT
I was also going to add... I take back that comment about there not being 5000 pieces. I now think there are that many screws, nuts, bolts and washers. Every time the pile gets smaller, I have to open a new bundle. Thanks Kevin! Dan, Thanks for the comment on the texture, but it was actually a happy accident created by how I applied the primer. I used a small roller to make sure the primer was on evenly and it left a bit of texture. I thought the epoxy would level cover it but it did not. It might have with a couple more coats, but I'm pretty happy with the look and feel of it as it is. I did use an entire can of spray. The clamp instructables looks simple enough. I might just use the Rockler clamps long enough to make those clamps and move on. They're nice, but quite a bit more than I think I need. Thanks again! Jeff Good job -- and if you did use the wrong screws in the wrong spot - take them out one at a time. Yes, that's the voice of experience speaking... Anyway the texture happened I think it looks sharp. I like the gloss (on mine) more then I thought I would but the texture is what sold me. I feel like, "It's a MACHINE" it needs texture to look manly. Sorry, had to say that.
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jeffd
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Post by jeffd on Sept 8, 2016 0:08:39 GMT
More progress today, with all the major components assembled. Now I feel like I'm really making progress on the assembly! Most of the bags of parts have evaporated too! I have to go back to work tomorrow though, so progress will be slower going. Two notes... a 7mm socket isn't part of the tools required list at the beginning of the assembly document. This can be used on the M4 Nylock nuts when attaching the motor mounts. Adjustable wrench of whatever could be used, but it's just one of those things I tend to notice since I had all the other tools handy. Also, I think it's a 4 or 5mm that was helpful snugging the homing switches. Secondly, I might have used the wrong screw somewhere else (I couldn't figure out where). When installing the idler assembly on the back frame piece , it calls for an M6 washer and an M6x25 machine screw. I didn't have any of either left, but I did still have an M5 screw and washer. Since the M5x25s were used to hold the corner braces in place, I presume this isn't any sort of problem... and might even be a typo? Now... on to the homing. I need some help here. I can't seem to get the last two mounted. There doesn't seem to be enough of the M5x8 screw to bite into the drop in t nut after going through the homing switch plate, washer, and the axis rail. I attached a picture of what I'm seeing. I can get the t-nut started when it's out of the rail, but when I put it in the rail the screw just won't grab hold. Is there a trick I'm missing? Or would a M5x10 be an acceptable alternative? It just really seems like both the M5 screws are just a bit too short for the task. That's all for today! Jeff
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 8, 2016 4:29:14 GMT
Nice progress Jeff. Bummer on work.
That's true about the 7mm socket. We tried to describe just the minimum that would be needed so people didn't go out buying things like a 7mm socket that they would rarely ever use again outside the build.
The M6x25 thing is not a typo. There should have been one more M6x25 screw laying about for that Y idler assembly. There are five of them that get shipped. 2 on the X plate, 2 on the Y belt anchors, and 1 for that y idler mount. With that said, the M5x25 will work just fine.
One observation. I can't tell completely from the picture, but is that openbuilds router mount cocked a little bit? If so I would make sure if gets leveled before the router goes in.
Someone else mentioned the M5x8 thing and we started shipping with M5x10s. I've got M5x8s there on two demo units that works just fine, but a little variation in washer thickness seems to matter, hence our shift to the 10mm long. We can ship ya out a couple M5x10s tomorrow if you would like.
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jeffd
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Post by jeffd on Sept 8, 2016 13:07:24 GMT
I'll look for that M6x25 again tonight. I'd like to know where I hid it. It looks like I can get a bag of M5x10 at Home Depot for 93 cents. I'll just grab them on the way home. There is still a little play in the front of the spindle mount. I did not snug it down. I'll look at it again tonight, but think I already checked the back. It's pretty exciting to be so close to the end of the build! Thanks! Jeff
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jeffd
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Post by jeffd on Sept 9, 2016 3:20:17 GMT
Indeed, those M5x10s did the job. I got all the homing sensors installed and adjusted. I also got the rigidity cross braces installed. The... I did a bit of disassembly. Had to fix that level issue with the openbuilds router mount. Pffft! That's two times you've seen some of my silly mistakes in the photos. Very glad I posted them. Thank you!
Next it appears I'll be on to mounting the electronics and figuring that stuff out.
Jeff
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jeffd
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Post by jeffd on Sept 10, 2016 3:49:04 GMT
"That's a short, and it's bad." While entirely true, and some folks might not know that......... bahahaha, that made me laugh way more than it should have. Is this what you're talking about? How's my soldering?
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 10, 2016 4:24:08 GMT
Indeed, those M5x10s did the job. I got all the homing sensors installed and adjusted. I also got the rigidity cross braces installed. The... I did a bit of disassembly. Had to fix that level issue with the openbuilds router mount. Pffft! That's two times you've seen some of my silly mistakes in the photos. Very glad I posted them. Thank you! Next it appears I'll be on to mounting the electronics and figuring that stuff out. Jeff No problem. That's what the forum is all about.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 10, 2016 4:29:07 GMT
"That's a short, and it's bad." While entirely true, and some folks might not know that......... bahahaha, that made me laugh way more than it should have. Is this what you're talking about? How's my soldering? ? I'm confused. That doesn't look to be a part of the machine.... What happened?
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jeffd
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Posts: 21
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Post by jeffd on Sept 11, 2016 3:53:17 GMT
Sorry for the confusion, I was reading that quote ("That's a short, and it's bad") in the assembly instructions and it made laugh. The picture was just a bad joke.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 11, 2016 4:19:43 GMT
Sorry for the confusion, I was reading that quote ("That's a short, and it's bad") in the assembly instructions and it made laugh. The picture was just a bad joke. Oh. LOL. I forgot I wrote that so I was lost. It's one of those things that you hope people know, but just in case....
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jeffd
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Posts: 21
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Post by jeffd on Sept 11, 2016 19:39:01 GMT
(Oh, and I do solder much better than that. I stole that mess from the internet)
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jeffd
New Member
Posts: 21
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Post by jeffd on Sept 16, 2016 2:46:15 GMT
Learned something new (and a bit unfortunate) tonight. My old netbook (tiny, slow laptop) runs a 32-bit version of Windows 7 called "Starter Edition". The plug-and-play driver only works with 64-bit versions of Windows 7 ("Home" edition or better). Starter Edition never came in a 64-bit version, so that means some really old computers that can run Windows 7 won't work with the Uno driver. (Pentium 4 computers come to mind) Also netbooks and maybe even laptops that run Windows 7 "Starter Edition" won't work either. That really may not mean anything to most folks, and likely won't impact many. Just means my last few days of updating the netbook were wasted effort and now I'll be digging into the closet for a desktop of some sort. Pffffffffffffffffffffft. Jeff
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 16, 2016 3:52:46 GMT
That's good to know, Jeff. My research showed that windows 7 was covered, but I guess this windows 7 starter addition is the unfortunate exception. Your was one of the first to ship with that board that was supposed to be plug and play, which is an upgrade from the CH340/341 chip versions. We could try a couple of things to try and make it where you can use it on that laptop. 1) We could just ship you a one of the CH340/341 chipped boards and see if that will work on that 32 bit windows 7 machine. I know we have at least one left in my personal collection. 2) You can try one of the drivers I just uploaded to this post. These three are all from a pretty darn old version of the Arduino development program, so I feel like they are worth a shot. In the zip file that is called "old drivers" try the two that contain something about "Uno" and Uno" rev three. Download them all and put them in an easy to find place on your computer. Maybe a folder on your desktop would do. Now plug in the board to the USB port. Go to device manager on your computer (look in the control panel folder). There will probably be a COM device or something of that nature sticking out like a sore thumb. If not expand some menus in hopes it is at least recognizing it as plugged in. It will probably be under "Ports, COM and LPT". Right click that unrecognized COM device, then click update driver. It will ask you if you want windows to search automatically or if you want to browse your computer. Browse your computer and start trying those different drivers that I uploaded to this post. Be sure that you have already unzipped that one zip file and copied those other driver files in with the rest. I feel like you have a pretty good shot with one of these, if not we will send ya one of the other boards to try out. Let us know if that solved it. If so, please tell us which driver did it.
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