retrofitting a tramming adapter to the PR?

[aquanub]

Hey all,

Has anyone here retrofitted one of these to their PR to assist in tramming? www.cncrouterparts.com/router-mount-base-adapter-p-158.html

For the time being I've just been loosening the router mount and manually adjusting, but its almost near impossible for me to get it perfect. I am about 0.01"-0.02" off. The tramming method with that plate adapter is adjusted by screws which is much more precise IMO.

My only concern with this adapter is that it would be offsetting the router more off of the Z axis which in turn creates a larger moment / possible points of deflection during heavier machining ops.

Now that I'm machining more material than just wood, having a more accurate tram is more important than it use to be and manually shifting the router and adjusting isn't the most precise method . Oftentimes I'll have the tram close, and when I go to re-adjust it knocks it out more than I had it before.

Open to any suggestions to tramming as well, I'm currently loosening the rear mount (I have a single mount PR) getting that level with the bed, tightening it up and then doing my fine adjustments on the front by loosening the router securing bracket and manually moving it and tightening it. I've tried shimming the linear rails but it requires a lot more disassembling than I would like.

Thanks!

[joebob296]

I moved my router bracket up to the higher of the two hole patterns. Got a second piece of aluminum, drilled and tapped it so a bolt would push against the top bracket vertically, secured it to the lower hole pattern, then trammed the router. I used .02 feeler gauges to tram forward and backward.

[aquanub]

Oct 31, 2019 1:06:29 GMT joebob296 said:

I moved my router bracket up to the higher of the two hole patterns. Got a second piece of aluminum, drilled and tapped it so a bolt would push against the top bracket vertically, secured it to the lower hole pattern, then trammed the router. I used .02 feeler gauges to tram forward and backward.

your method works for the Y direction but what about the X? do you have any photos? thanks for sharing

[joebob296]

Feeler gauges behind the main z plate. Feeler gauges on top tips it forward, feeler gauges on bottom tip it backward.

[ttabbal]

I don't know about that adapter, though I bet you could make it work without too much hassle.

I do like the look of a full t-slot table on the Z though. Easy to move the router up and down... Because I didn't have enough projects.

[aquanub]

Oct 31, 2019 23:56:45 GMT joebob296 said:

Feeler gauges behind the main z plate. Feeler gauges on top tips it forward, feeler gauges on bottom tip it backward.

I went to shim the z-plate (the 4 linear rail bearings... but I had to loosen the center mount)... one of the 4 washers fell out from the back and I had a helluva time getting it back in. That was an interesting night.

[tgattis]

Nov 3, 2019 17:42:38 GMT aquanub said:

Oct 31, 2019 23:56:45 GMT joebob296 said:

Feeler gauges behind the main z plate. Feeler gauges on top tips it forward, feeler gauges on bottom tip it backward.

I went to shim the z-plate (the 4 linear rail bearings... but I had to loosen the center mount)... one of the 4 washers fell out from the back and I had a helluva time getting it back in. That was an interesting night.

I feel your pain...I used aluminum foil and business card stockto shim my PR, getting everything loose and tight again without losing shims or washers and nuts made for a frustrating day...ended up calling it quits because I had a job that was already overdue...I'm gonna create a tramming plate that I can actually reach the screws and nuts without a headache....Derek, any particular reason that the router collet will actually go below the level of the t-slot bed? Seems the entire Z axis could be raised at least an inch to give more headroom for milling thicker parts.