M3 CNC Build and First Plots

[gkr]

Hello Everyone,

This is my very first empirical test of the M3 CNC after completing the build, and it passed with flying colors.



I repeated the plots with the same g-code over and over again (even after a complete power-down and up), to test the repeatability, and from what I can tell, it accurate to at least 0.2mm.

Figured, prior to mounting the spindle it's always better to initially try the machine as a plotter. It's far less dangerous, and helps me with getting familiar with the behavior and quirks of a new machine.

It also helps with fine-tuning, calibration, and correcting any build related issues.

Used Easel to draw the basic shapes and generate the g-code tool-paths for this test. Set the tool-diameter to 0.5mm. Feed rate was 700mm/min and depth at 0.1mm.

Regards.

[delhome88]

Great looking build! have some fun!

[gkr]

Apr 18, 2017 16:46:45 GMT delhome88 said:

Great looking build! have some fun!

Thank you.

[Derek the Admin]

Cool video. I'm eager to see you make some sawdust with it. Looks like you made quick work of learning Easel.

[mp4doggie]

Great idea using the pen 1st I ruined some cheap MDF and a good pair of underwear my first test run. all sorted now . Shout out to Afrorww for building a panic button

[gkr]

Apr 19, 2017 3:32:06 GMT Derek the Admin said:

Cool video. I'm eager to see you make some sawdust with it. Looks like you made quick work of learning Easel.

Thanks Derek.

Actually, I have some prior experience with Easel for the past 3 months . I had built another CNC (from a different vendor) and have been messing with Easel to generate (offline) tool-paths for it. That made it easier to get started on the M3 as well.

Here's another video of the M3 plotting an outline of MJ:



As far as making sawdust is concerned, I still need to figure out this issue with the belt slowly slipping down the Y-axis Idler pulley. I seem to have the X-axis dialed in, but this Y-axis is bugging me. Otherwise all else appears to be in good shape.

[Derek the Admin]

Looking foor. On the belt thing there are a couple things you can try. Alignment is admittedly tough sometimes. If, for instance, the back frame piece isn't dead flush against the side frame pieces the idler will tend to be cocked. Try a little bit of turning the screw that makes the axle that the idler turns on as well as tightening or slightly loosening the mount screw for the idler. You'll also have to make sure that the anchor point is in good alignment or it will drive it either which way.

[gkr]

The back of the frame is flush. In fact both back corners are 100% flush. The front I would say is about 95%. That's the best I could achieve with my daughter as a helper.

Will double-check your second and third suggestions again.

Actually, I'm trying another improvised fix as well. I have implemented it, but have not yet had a chance to do a test to see how well it holds.

If it does, I'll post further details on what I'm trying.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions.

[gkr]

Hi Derek,

I took some pictures of the four corner assemblies:

www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/34017787411/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/33990955472/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/34148458995/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/34107514166/in/album-72157679622063033/

Also, my quick and easy fix for the Y-axis appears to be working.

Basically, I put a very small piece of a durable tape (which is smooth and non-sticky on the top surface), to act as a cushion and used it as a shim on the top back portion of the Y-axis Idler pulley. This way, if the belt would ever try to slip down ever so slowly, it would not come in direct contact with the cast aluminum idler pulley bracket. However, it might touch the shim tape (just for a few mm) every once in a while.

The belt should not wear, since it is never in contact with any rough/metal surface, but this soft cushiony tape.

In the long run, there is a possibility that this little piece of tape may wear. But, it's super easy to replace it.

I just need to keep an eye on it, that's all.

Some pictures of what I'm trying to describe above:

www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/34107503466/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/33305639194/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/33305631034/in/album-72157679622063033/
www.flickr.com/photos/20434834@N08/34107501716/in/album-72157679622063033/

Please let me know what your thoughts are.

Thanks for your time.

Regards.

[Derek the Admin]

That looks like a good solution. Thank you for sharing and documenting it so well.

[gkr]

No problem. Although it will only help if the belt tends to slip downwards, towards the idler bearing mount.

[gkr]

Found this cool peel and stick tape at The Container Store. It works really well, and can be used as a guide to Zero the axes, and also to position items on the bed. It has inches on the top, and mm on the bottom.

flic.kr/p/SSaANn