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Post by aforww on Nov 22, 2017 1:48:27 GMT
Looks like circular is the winner. I'll give it a go on the other color of marble to see how it runs. Just keep in mind, circular will leave the core. You're other option is to take off the lead in/out from your adaptive.
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Post by mirthmgr on Nov 22, 2017 6:02:36 GMT
I ran the translucency test on the cream marble with the updates to the operations. The cream is so much more brittle than the white that I wasn't able to really come to any conclusions. It acts a little like a micarta that wants to delaminate. I might give it a run on another piece of the white so I can compare. The results were sort of interesting, though, from an artistic standpoint: You can see that there was tons of chipping. What I thought was cool, however, was what it looks like with a backlight: I added some front lighting on the left. The white is translucent at full depth, but the cream doesn't let any light through until the 6mm deep hole. The cream tiles are very slightly thinner than the white at 9.5mm vs 9.65mm, so it's about 3.5mm thick at that point. The variation in color has a huge impact; the deepest hole is the bottom left, but the bottom center is letting a lot more through.
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Post by aforww on Nov 22, 2017 6:12:18 GMT
I think if you reduce the DOC you'll get less chipping on the initial. I'd probably have your first operation just score the top surface. Maybe .25mm or less. Then go in with your regular operation. You might even try using a V-bit to score it before hogging it out.
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Post by mirthmgr on Nov 22, 2017 6:43:35 GMT
I think if you reduce the DOC you'll get less chipping on the initial. I'd probably have your first operation just score the top surface. Maybe .25mm or less. Then go in with your regular operation. You might even try using a V-bit to score it before hogging it out. I didn't even think about using a v-bit. That's a great idea. As is the thin scoring for the first operation. Fortunately, this stuff is cheap enough to allow for lots of experimentation!
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Post by Derek the Admin on Nov 22, 2017 16:52:05 GMT
Thanks for keeping us updated on the developments. Looking good. I an imagine some possibilities with backlighting it!
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Post by mirthmgr on Nov 22, 2017 22:25:55 GMT
Thanks for keeping us updated on the developments. Looking good. I an imagine some possibilities with backlighting it! That's what I'm working up to! I've got a couple of beautiful bowl blanks that would make for great bases, and a bountiful supply of LEDs (one of those, "I need 10 LED modules. The 10-pack is $15, the 100-pack is $20..." situations).
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Post by Derek the Admin on Nov 25, 2017 14:20:37 GMT
Now that Is really like to see.
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Post by mirthmgr on Nov 29, 2017 8:19:23 GMT
I ran another cut on marble tonight, and I'm definitely zeroing in on some best practices. Following aforww's advice, I ran a very shallow engrave operation with a v-bit along all of the edges before the clearing operation. It turned out great, with no chipping, and this was in the much more brittle cream marble. This first shot just made me giggle. It looks a little bit like I had an infestation of marble-eating ants (and is a good reminder that respiratory protection is very important): I could have cleared it off as it went, but since it won't burn and I wanted to save the dust to color resin, I left it. It was a little mesmerizing to watch as the mounds formed. I ended up with this: Here's a closeup of the piece. There are a couple of spots that look like chips, but they're actually pits in the original tile or little remnants of paper towel after wet-sanding: And the backlit photo: Not an ideal lighting situation, but it definitely works. I had initially designed this to be cut in the white marble, which is much more translucent, but since the cream is more brittle and I wanted to test how effective the v-bit would be at keeping the edges clean, I gave it a go. I would probably make the holes deeper for the cream in the future to let a little more light through, but I love the color it has. It's a daylight-balanced light behind it, so it's warming it up quite a lot. It was a long cut, about 3 hours total, but I was being super conservative with the optimal load in the adaptive operation. I don't know that I can speed things up too much without a cooling system, but I'll try giving it a tiny boost at a time to see what I can manage. Next step is to build the base for it to see how it looks with some RGBs behind it.
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Post by aforww on Nov 29, 2017 8:29:21 GMT
Awesome. Glad the idea worked out!
Which machine are you using? Might have some ideas for water bath setups for you
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Post by mirthmgr on Nov 29, 2017 9:26:48 GMT
Awesome. Glad the idea worked out! Which machine are you using? Might have some ideas for water bath setups for you It's a Carve King with the 400W spindle. I've seen a few examples of water baths for glass cutting (something I may try in the future, but not for a while). I wasn't sure if it would be safe to try anything with an air-cooled spindle unless I could fashion some sort of guard to keep the water away from the internals. If you've got ideas, I'd definitely be interested!
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Post by aforww on Nov 29, 2017 9:32:19 GMT
Water "shouldn't" get into anything critical. What you could do use make a cone from a 2litre bottle similar to what they use on pets but smaller scale with the whole just big enough for the shaft to pass through. This will deflect the air coming out of the spindle upwards and protect the spindle from water getting flung/blown up from the bottom. Otherwise, any water getting flung around is outwards away from the spindle.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Nov 29, 2017 18:23:56 GMT
That turned out really well. Nice work. I'll be interested to see what you come up with along the lines of what Aforww was saying about the cone thing. I saw someone make a dust shoe that way once too.
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