|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 15, 2016 17:05:57 GMT
Dan, the Y axis looks right from here. Nice work. That paint looks good!
You can get all six wheels on the X to make good contact. We should have spent a little more time on this in the assembly instructions I think because there is a bit of an art to it sometimes.
Those bottom holes are obviously a little over the size of the M5 screw to allow fitmet. As such, you can actually get a little bit of turn in the bottom holes if, while there is still some torque on that bolt(but not so tight its LOCKED down), you take your 8mm socket and turn the lock nuts in the clockwise direction as though you were tightening... but without an Allen key in the head of the bolt so the bolt is just turning instead of tightening. What is happening with yours right now I suspect is that the bottom middle V wheel bolt is setting a piece of a mm higher in its hole than the two outer bottoms. Thus, when you tighten the eccentrics its all kind of "balancing" on the center wheel. You might want to try to leave the eccentrics tight, then turn that bottom center lock nut clockwise with that socket. The pressure on it and the turning will tend to force that bolt downward a piece of a millimeter its hole as long as it wasn't so tightly torqued that it can't be turned a bit in its hole.
I have to admit that your situation is a little different than what I am use to seeing though. Normally if anything it's the bottom center wheel that is out of contact. This gets remedied by loosening all eccentrics a bit and turning that center bottom as I described in until it seems to be on plane with the outer two then retightening the eccentrics a bit at anti me for each onen until they are all sufficiently turned in.
In either case, its all about making sure those bottom three are actually on plane... that is just a but of trial and error with the method I described.
Please let me know if this doesn't get it for you and I will see what else I can do to help. This method ought to do it though.
|
|
kb9jlo
Junior Member
Posts: 73
|
Tips
Aug 16, 2016 1:02:52 GMT
Post by kb9jlo on Aug 16, 2016 1:02:52 GMT
Dan, the Y axis looks right from here. Nice work. That paint looks good! You can get all six wheels on the X to make good contact. We should have spent a little more time on this in the assembly instructions I think because there is a bit of an art to it sometimes. Those bottom holes are obviously a little over the size of the M5 screw to allow fitmet. As such, you can actually get a little bit of turn in the bottom holes if, while there is still some torque on that bolt(but not so tight its LOCKED down), you take your 8mm socket and turn the lock nuts in the clockwise direction as though you were tightening... but without an Allen key in the head of the bolt so the bolt is just turning instead of tightening. What is happening with yours right now I suspect is that the bottom middle V wheel bolt is setting a piece of a mm higher in its hole than the two outer bottoms. Thus, when you tighten the eccentrics its all kind of "balancing" on the center wheel. You might want to try to leave the eccentrics tight, then turn that bottom center lock nut clockwise with that socket. The pressure on it and the turning will tend to force that bolt downward a piece of a millimeter its hole as long as it wasn't so tightly torqued that it can't be turned a bit in its hole. I have to admit that your situation is a little different than what I am use to seeing though. Normally if anything it's the bottom center wheel that is out of contact. This gets remedied by loosening all eccentrics a bit and turning that center bottom as I described in until it seems to be on plane with the outer two then retightening the eccentrics a bit at anti me for each onen until they are all sufficiently turned in. In either case, its all about making sure those bottom three are actually on plane... that is just a but of trial and error with the method I described. Please let me know if this doesn't get it for you and I will see what else I can do to help. This method ought to do it though. I figured it was just fiddly like that but didn't know for sure. The Y axis adjustment was a no-brainer. I do like the paint. It's not perfect but for a "machine" I think it looks sharp. I really wanted to 'satin' clear it but just couldn't wait any longer! Ha, ha! When you get to the point where you have moving axis' you get antsy to get it done and make some noise.
|
|
|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 16, 2016 1:40:33 GMT
I hear ya there!
I'm ready to see it move for ya too. Got any first projects planned?
|
|
|
Post by kevin on Aug 16, 2016 1:47:06 GMT
Dan that paint is looking good. It looks like you are getting close to completing the build. I am looking forward to seeing your completed paint job and hearing how the machine performs.
I have to second what the admin posted about using a waste board to save your machine bed. My learning curve has been more like a complete circle and if I hadn't been using one, my machine bed would look like a moonscape.
|
|
kb9jlo
Junior Member
Posts: 73
|
Post by kb9jlo on Aug 16, 2016 16:16:27 GMT
I hear ya there! I'm ready to see it move for ya too. Got any first projects planned? I was mentioning it yesterday at work, they were asking me about 3D printing something, and I think instead of 3D printing - it will be CNC routed in MDF or foam. They want some small models of a building facade. Picture an elevation view of a building - "printed" in 3D with a CNC router. Something to show the client. Oh, I work for an architectural firm. I'm their computer geek. I thought that was funny. Now I really do have to hurry up and get it working! www.bldd.comMedium size architectural firm, five offices, four in IL and one in Davenport, IA. I do all their IT - all of it - networking, desktops, servers, storage, virtualization, phones... We were one of the first firms to be 100% virtualized to the desktop. In other words all their desktops and all their data is in one place. And they can be anywhere and have access to their desktop & software (anyplace with Internet access). Pretty cool setup if I do say so myself!
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 17, 2016 22:51:45 GMT
Man I'm getting impatient. I have done absolutely nothing with mine this week.
|
|
|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 18, 2016 2:01:50 GMT
That sounds like a cool project Dan! I have not used it but a prospective buyer was telling me that he uses Renboard for modeling. He said it cuts pretty close to MDF but is an overall better product. I'm sure it's pricier though.
aforww: Take your time, but I am getting impatient to see your paint job soon.
|
|
|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 19, 2016 3:58:06 GMT
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 19, 2016 20:39:17 GMT
Here's a tip. Make sure your spindle mount comes with mounting screws. Mine did not and here I am stuck lol. To the hardware store I go.
|
|
|
Tips
Aug 20, 2016 2:46:31 GMT
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 20, 2016 2:46:31 GMT
Which mount did you go with?
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 20, 2016 3:23:23 GMT
Which mount did you go with? I went worth the Dewalt 660 mount from inventables. It was about. 5 mm to small for my makita router which was perfect because I could take a little off with the spindle sander and have a perfect fit. However, no mounting hardware so just used some 10-32 screws I had here.
|
|
|
Tips
Aug 20, 2016 5:55:19 GMT
via mobile
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 20, 2016 5:55:19 GMT
I'm glad you made it work. Nice modding on the mount. 5mm is a good chunk, so I'm glad you got it like you needed it.
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 21, 2016 1:32:22 GMT
.5 stupid phone keyboard getting to predict what I was writing lol. It's 99% done. Ran through the test movements calibrated homing and all is well. Just have to mount fan and final touches.
|
|
|
Tips
Aug 21, 2016 3:52:42 GMT
via mobile
kb9jlo likes this
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 21, 2016 3:52:42 GMT
.5 stupid phone keyboard getting to predict what I was writing lol. It's 99% done. Ran through the test movements calibrated homing and all is well. Just have to mount fan and final touches. Lol. I wasn't going to call that out but I was sure thinking 5mm was a heck of a lot. That's great that it's running! I am excited for you. He advised that the fan needs to be close to the stepper drivers blowing at them, but it moves so much air that it's going to try to slowly blow itself back. I like to put a little piece of wood at the back of it to keep it in place. Don't forget the pics if you can.
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 21, 2016 4:04:26 GMT
.5 stupid phone keyboard getting to predict what I was writing lol. It's 99% done. Ran through the test movements calibrated homing and all is well. Just have to mount fan and final touches. Lol. I wasn't going to call that out but I was sure thinking 5mm was a heck of a lot. That's great that it's running! I am excited for you. He advised that the fan needs to be close to the stepper drivers blowing at them, but it moves so much air that it's going to try to slowly blow itself back. I like to put a little piece of wood at the back of it to keep it in place. Don't forget the pics if you can. I've got some standoff posts on it already just have to drill the frame and Mount it. With these posts it sits about 1/2 inch away from the boards. Should be plenty close. I'll get pics of it all up soon. I do have a wiring question. In the pictures on the site it appears the wiring for zplate is routed in the X rail worth some kind of cover. Can you clarify what that is?
|
|