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Post by mrbigj on Mar 15, 2017 4:11:01 GMT
Aforww was 100% right. You were going to be really upset when the cutter ripped some letters right off the stock. On the cutting strategy for the round overs.... You are going to want to use something from the 3D toolpaths menu. There are a few different ways to skin this cat. You might want to look at the 3d parallel strategy with a reasonably small stepover and see if that gives you what you want. You might also want to consider breaking it into a different operations and changing to a ball nose for this. I have an eighth inch ball nose. What confused me is that when I click on one of the 3d tools or wants me to select alone rather than the face. Do I select the top line or bottom line? J
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Post by mrbigj on Mar 15, 2017 4:11:45 GMT
In Fusion you can design in whatever you want and change it on the fly. I routinely switch back and forth during the design phase. You could do a whole design in inches, when it's done change it to MM. It's not literal in the sense that I say this line is .5 inches long and then when I change to mm it thinks it's .5mm. It will say this was drawn as .5 inches so it's 12.7 mm. Good deal... Thank you... J
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Post by mrbigj on Mar 15, 2017 4:13:22 GMT
In Fusion you can design in whatever you want and change it on the fly. I routinely switch back and forth during the design phase. You could do a whole design in inches, when it's done change it to MM. It's not literal in the sense that I say this line is .5 inches long and then when I change to mm it thinks it's .5mm. It will say this was drawn as .5 inches so it's 12.7 mm. But if I design in inches, is our machine set to mm's for gcode thus confusing the machine or causing the cut design to turn out poorly or not as you intended? J
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Post by mrbigj on Mar 15, 2017 4:15:53 GMT
I always see you guys posting feeds and speeds in millimeters and designs in millimeters and wonder if I'm missing the boat somehow...
J
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Post by aforww on Mar 15, 2017 4:17:33 GMT
It will determine path based on the model surface. The line is simply the boundary. So you will select the bottom boundary for the modeled area. In this switch plate for example. Using a parallel operation, I selected the line profile line around the 3d part I want milled that way. If I would have selected the outer profile of the whole thing, it would try to do that operation over the entire model surface.
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Post by aforww on Mar 15, 2017 4:18:58 GMT
For me, mm is just easier to deal with when trying to be exacting. It also helps with the map as I'm having to deal with fewer chances of decimals or dealing with fractions. I started using mm for most of my woodworking stuff that was small scale a long time ago lol.
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Post by mrbigj on Mar 15, 2017 4:22:19 GMT
For me, mm is just easier to deal with when trying to be exacting. It also helps with the map as I'm having to deal with fewer chances of decimals or dealing with fractions. I started using mm for most of my woodworking stuff that was small scale a long time ago lol. I don't have any measuring devices that read in millimeters, lol. I also have a really hard time picturing that distance in my head. A foot, I can easily picture. I have no idea how many mm's that is without looking it up, lol. Another skill for me to learn! J
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Post by aforww on Mar 15, 2017 4:27:39 GMT
lol I'm in the same boat. I imagine everything in my head in inches. But when I'm doing small, intricate stuff I'll convert to mm. Buy you some cheap digital calipers for doing all that stuff. It doesn't really have a need to be learned. I just find it easier to remember something is 1mm vs 0.0393701 inches. lol. Also, I Google "inches to mm" A LOT.
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