Headstock Logo inlay

[psr45]

Hello. I am a new forum member, itching to build a MillRight CNC router. I build guitars, and although there may be other uses, the project I aim to do with an M3 or Woodcarver is to cut cavities in the wood veneer overlay for the logos I use on the headstocks. This is an example of a headstock with inlaid logo (in this case, I would want to do the rest of the inlay also...):


For now, I have 15 new pearl logos, so there is no need to cut more for a few years. But I would like to inlay them in CNC cut cavities in the veneer. So I would start with the new logo specimen. From that I would need to create code to cut the cavity and perform the cutting.

Before I purchase a kit, I am writing to ask how to go from the pearl logo to the code. Is there a way to do this directly from an image of the logo? How would I use the image to end up cutting a cavity that is an exact fit for a particular piece?Since they are hand cut, they vary slightly from piece to piece.

If I live long enough and build enough in that time, I may need to make more logos, and I would like to be able to cut those with the CNC router. It might also be economical to cut other inlays in the shop rather than buying them once I have the router. Will the system handle cutting pearl that is about 3/32" thick? I have a brand new DWP611 and a lot of carbide router bits to do this work...

Thanks for the info, if you can offer it!

Best wishes to all!!

Peter

[Bruce]

The question you ask all depends on the software you choose to work with. The Vetric Vcarve software (sold here) is one of the easiest to use with inlays.
Here is a video example.
Also, the DeWalt 611 router is the goto device for CNC machines.

[hans]

I also build acoustic guitars and have greatly benefitted from use of a MillRight CNC router. (I started with a Carve King and am now "dialing-in" a Mega V.) The designs that you're now using may be difficult to inlay using a CNC router alone, as they have some very sharp corners. Carving a pocket for the arrowheads, for example, requires some sharp inside corners. Using a small end mill (say 1 mm) you could do most of the pocket with a router, while finishing with a chisel.

I use my CNC router for inlays (generally designed with contours smooth enough to allow routing with a ⅛" bit), for bridges, for carved headstocks, for shaping the back of the neck, for carved rosettes, and. using a 0.6 mm end mill, for cutting fretboard slots and slotting nuts. A multipurpose tool.

[psr45]

Thanks, Bruce and Hans, for your replies....