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Post by aquanub on Apr 13, 2020 20:28:31 GMT
I clamp the router as tight as I can (and as vertical as I can) using the black aluminum MillRight mount before adjusting the adjuster plate. Then, when I turn the screws in the adjuster plate, it wedges the router a bit more in the black aluminum mount in a direction that "fine tunes" the tram. Read carefully what I wrote. (I tried to write it carefully, but may not have succeeded in writing it clearly. Sorry.) I re-read it again, it makes sense. Thanks for clarifying. I may give this a try on my PR, I have the early version with the single clamp. Only downside is I see that the adjustment plate has to be "stopped" by the top of the router, which will result in some lost height.
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hans
Full Member
Posts: 151
Machine: Other
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Post by hans on Apr 13, 2020 22:24:22 GMT
The adjustment plate does not need to be "stopped" by the top of the router -- if it were, the adjustment bolts might not be adjustable. But it does need to be tightly coupled to the router body.
When the adjustment plate's bolts are engaged, the "fine tune" motion is divided between the two competing clamps, MillRight mount-to-router, and adjustment plate-to-router, inversely proportioned to their rigidity. If the MillRight mount-to-router clamping was VERY inflexilble (which, at least in my Mega V, it is not) and the adjustment plate-to-router clamping was soft, attempts to tram by means of the adjustment bolts would merely tilt the adjustment plate on the router without affecting its orientation. So make it tight!
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Post by aquanub on Apr 14, 2020 22:58:19 GMT
The adjustment plate does not need to be "stopped" by the top of the router -- if it were, the adjustment bolts might not be adjustable. But it does need to be tightly coupled to the router body. When the adjustment plate's bolts are engaged, the "fine tune" motion is divided between the two competing clamps, MillRight mount-to-router, and adjustment plate-to-router, inversely proportioned to their rigidity. If the MillRight mount-to-router clamping was VERY inflexilble (which, at least in my Mega V, it is not) and the adjustment plate-to-router clamping was soft, attempts to tram by means of the adjustment bolts would merely tilt the adjustment plate on the router without affecting its orientation. So make it tight!
This is where I'm at so far... Im debating on 3d printing this piece VS cnc out of aluminum.
I may add a clamping feature using a fastener vs relying on just friction to fit.
Will report back. Thanks for sharing your experiences with me.
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Post by Bruce on Apr 15, 2020 2:53:43 GMT
That's what I'm thinking too...Maybe a 3d test print.
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Post by btreichel on Apr 15, 2020 3:58:28 GMT
That's what I'm thinking too...Maybe a 3d test print. Somebody get me the stl file. I currently have my work's two dremel 3d45's sitting in my basement. I'm working as the dept's print shop.
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Post by jdpworks on Apr 17, 2020 5:56:51 GMT
I noticed the top collar is a screw fit, I was thinking of designing something similar to print. Do you think having the tram adjustment plate screw on to the router would have any advantage?
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hans
Full Member
Posts: 151
Machine: Other
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Post by hans on Apr 17, 2020 17:23:15 GMT
A screw fit would be fine -- if it's tight. Two collars with screw engagement to the router body would work well, as one could act as a "jam nut" to the other. Only one should have tabs for adjustment bolts -- which also need to be threaded (probably using inserts). If I were designing it, I'd likely use a pinch bolt, similar to the MillRight black aluminum clamp, instead.
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Post by aquanub on Apr 20, 2020 1:07:30 GMT
This is what I ended up with this weekend after a few iterations. Unfortunately I cant say it works well on the PR... I was able to dial out some of it but its still not perfect.
I've also noticed even with everything tightened down, there is still some play in the Z axis... possible backlash from the bearings? Everything is tight.
The waterjet cut router collar on my machine itself is not straight (I assume jet deflection from running it too fast for the thickness of the material during manufacturing). I'm going to give up on tramming this machine. I have wasted too much time chasing this. Going to be redesign the Z axis with integrated tramming adjustments. Will relegate the PR to wood cutting and save up for a tormach or something for my metal projects.
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Post by billiam on May 2, 2020 5:32:23 GMT
I just finished one as well for the Mega V. Was still a pain in the butt to make adjustments at the router mount this way, but easier and more "incremental" than adjusting by hand.
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Post by trialnterror on May 7, 2020 14:31:08 GMT
I made one a guy had up on the FB page. Although added my own twist to it.
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Post by billiam on May 9, 2020 20:31:05 GMT
After playing with this for a while, I don't think the above collar actually works (long term), though it works fine at first.
I can get the router trammed within .05-.1mm in a 9" radius, but over time I think the router returns to a position more perpendicular to the router mount even when really clamped down.
I had it accurately adjusted in the evening, and it was out by about 0.4mm the next afternoon. I'm not sure where to go from here
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Post by Bruce on May 10, 2020 0:15:53 GMT
You have to go back to using shims on the router mount. I used thin strips of 1/4" paper and stuck them under the bottom side or top side to get the router to turn forward or backward in the direction needed. After that there is usually enough play in the screw holes of the router mount that a slight turn CW or CCW can be made to compensate in that direction also.
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Post by billiam on May 10, 2020 1:06:42 GMT
Thanks Bruce, I'll head more that way.
What is your process for shimming and adjusting? It seems like you would need to: Decouple the Z axis rod and maybe remove the Z motor, remove the Z linear bearings, and then shim and rotate, reassemble, and recheck. Is that right?
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Post by Bruce on May 10, 2020 17:28:20 GMT
Yes, It is a pain. You might try this: Pull the bit out of the router and lower the z axis plate as far as you can to see if you can get to the back router mount screws with a screwdriver. You might have to adjust the router up a bit in the mount to get the Z axis plate low enough. Then you can just loosen the router mount screws just enough to stick a shim in there. I was able to do that on my Carve King but haven't got to it on the Mega-V yet.
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Post by billiam on May 10, 2020 17:50:11 GMT
Gotcha, no I don't think that's possible on the Mega V unfortunately. The screws are high enough that you'd have to have the linear rail slides fully off their rails before the router mount screws would be exposed.
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