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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 16:04:38 GMT
Run this operation. I think it's .295 deep with a .125 bit. On my phone so can't read it. Let me know how it goes.
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 16:57:24 GMT
Ok thanks, I just loaded Easel and went from scratch just plane text file, told it bed was 10x10 work space 10x10 wood im on is 10x10x0.5 or half inch my bit was flat 1/8th told it i wanted it cut down or whatever and it showed preview i went in said i only wanted to cut down 0.0625 1/16th of an inch i then saved the Gcode and went into UGC and leveled the machine and ZERO all the G92 X0 X0 Z0 and then loaded the Gcode from Easel run it and damn if it went down 1/8th in or more i stopped it after one letter. Even under UGC i have soft reset then zero all reset all and made sure all numbers were ZERO and same thing it wont cut just 1/16th it wants to cut 1/8th and more but seems it wont cut less than 1/16th per pass. Im lost and burned out after 3days and over 40 cuts now and cant get it right. Now i am homing it using end-stop switches I take the bit lower left front lower it to flush off bed where only a peace of paper slides tight under it, then i ZERO all with the code G92 x0 y0 z0 and or using UGC and tell it reset X,Y,Z from its buttons under machine movements. and then load file and SEND and it cuts down past the entered 1/16th inch I messured it and best i can tell its 1/8th or over so im lost whats going on maybe me or software . I even though maybe its double the numbers as a factor somewhere in the software or maybe memory on the UNO board holding a setting but we have read the coding on it all looks good. I have noticed when i use UGC to jog the machine around i have it set in inches and at 1in movments it will move more than an inch not much but say i hit it 9 times to move 9inches its closer to 10inches total movement . But we did a G code movement and that read dead on moving things.
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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 17:14:29 GMT
Do you have any tool offsets assigned in UGS?
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 17:20:01 GMT
OK box bottom cur a box line 0.293 or so deep 4 5/8 by 7 13/16ths I'm not having a problem cutting deep I'm trying to just cut a very thin pocket ONLY 1/16 or 1/32 and it wont do it. The first cut is near 1/8th in deep right off. That is what my complaint or problem is but to answer your box cut lower left to right and was around 4 5/8 tall and 7 13/16ths wide and the cut was around 0.293 hard to get a true reading top of board is rough.
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 17:21:49 GMT
UGC not sure I downloaded it installed it and never changed nothing in it that I know of. Where would I look to see if I set something wrong by default.?
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 17:26:05 GMT
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 17:29:05 GMT
This is the only other setting I see under UGC sender
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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 17:33:43 GMT
OK box bottom cur a box line 0.293 or so deep 4 5/8 by 7 13/16ths I'm not having a problem cutting deep I'm trying to just cut a very thin pocket ONLY 1/16 or 1/32 and it wont do it. The first cut is near 1/8th in deep right off. That is what my complaint or problem is but to answer your box cut lower left to right and was around 4 5/8 tall and 7 13/16ths wide and the cut was around 0.293 hard to get a true reading top of board is rough. Good. That means it's interpreting Z commands correctly and is maintaining steps. So this seems an issue with user input. So let's cover a few things to make sure we are on the same page. Let's look at your last file you did outside makercam. Can you post a screenshot of ugs viewer and Gcode for the Bear Cubb file?
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 17:50:01 GMT
Not sure im following you , you want my last BEAR CUB file i tried to cut under Makercam? and you want a screen shot of UGC sender ? Or you want me to load my Gcode into UGC and show you a screen shot? Sorry just burned out and sometimes i dont understand the question or what someone is asking.
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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 18:03:36 GMT
Not sure im following you , you want my last BEAR CUB file i tried to cut under Makercam? and you want a screen shot of UGC sender ? Or you want me to load my Gcode into UGC and show you a screen shot? Sorry just burned out and sometimes i dont understand the question or what someone is asking. Post the Gcode for the bear cub file and load it with ugs so I can see the visualizer. Specifically, I want to see it rotated so I can see how deep the toolpath is. I'm not at my computer otherwise I'd load it myself.
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 18:29:54 GMT
I THINK this is what your asking for.
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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 19:17:47 GMT
And the Gcode file. I can't telling looking straight on but does the visualizer show more than one depth pass? Meaning that same tool path is shown at various depths? Should be able to rotate it a bit.
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 19:38:02 GMT
Here is my Gcode its Bear Cubb and told it to cut only the letters down 1/16th of an inch only. Cant upload the Gcode its 1300bites says to big to upload.
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Post by aforww on Aug 10, 2017 19:59:02 GMT
Really? My 3D toolpaths aren't even that big. My biggest is 2.3 megs but it's traveling 8 inches .008 inches at a time and it's 3D.
Anyway, the visualizer shows it as a single pass so assuming it's only 1/16+/- 1/32 your table is off. So, we now know it's not mechanical in the sense of operation or software. So, let's talk about zero and the table being out of tram.
When you zero, many people use the paper method, I use a feeler gauge or touch plate. Place a piece of paper on the material and lower Z onto it until it's just pinching the paper to the material. Reset Zero. Raise your cutter.
Tramming the spindle. Basically this is the method to make sure your table is perpendicular to the spindle at all four corners. There are various ways of doing this so I suggest googling Tramming CNC Router and get familiar with it.
Here's my assumption so far. You said the front left corner was where it should be up and down. Well when you zero it there, but your first cut is 1/32-1/16 off and 8 inches away, what was the table like there? Who knows. I'm willing to bet if you create an operation of a 1 inch circle with the zero point in the middle, it will be the correct depth because it's being cut where you are setting zero and it doesn't span a long distance. It's the same as 3D printing. If your bed on your printer isn't dead flat it throws off every layer printed.
We've eliminated all other variables. Test the circle, tram, and square everything up. This is another reason why people invest in surfacing bits. You put down a waste board and surface it as most folks won't get a dead flat table without dial indicators and a Tramming arm.
Hell, I'm confident in my abilities an last I checked I was almost 2mm off at one corner. I should have caught it waaaaaay sooner. And milling aluminum, that stuff is not forgiving when it comes to the table being off. At all.
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james383
New Member
Ready for larger and not even learned on my M3 yet. It's just enjoyable
Posts: 35
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Post by james383 on Aug 10, 2017 22:13:15 GMT
I think maybe a few things, I went out told it to do an impossible thing or hard job like cut 2 thousandths off of a peace of wood , im using press board from a old stereo cabinet i had and started cutting it up into 10x10 sections to test this on. So telling it to cut letters into the wood that thin or that thin of a pocket it did on the level side or the side i placed at ZERO. as it moved around it started cutting 30ths and 20ths in spots and back over at ZERO spot was just skimming the 2ths off . So i think the wood being puffy in spots and the bed being off is causing it all. BUT!!!! here is my next problem...
If im to level the bed by cutting it the thing is the Spoilboard is 10 3/4x 10 3/4 and even if i place a surfacing bit in thats 1in even 2in jejejeje it wont cut all the way to the outer edges. So im not ever going to be able to make the bed level . So im kinda screwed with that idea. With a 1/8th in bit and no endstops it will only move little over 10x10 im not OCD but i dont want to cut a pocket 10x10 into the spoiler-board that on it and screw up so I guess whatever im going to work with ill have to take an hour to shim it flat or just cut wood and never cut it through and through .
Thanks for the help and input so i guess ill use it for playing around only and forget making my alum parts and find a 30in or so one with a bed I can work with and cut on. I could build this one over buy some longer rails go wider and longer by 2inches then the Mill would cut the full 10.5x10.5 board on it. Maybe a M4 model jejejejeje But really thanks for all the help
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