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Post by Bruce on Sept 1, 2018 4:41:30 GMT
I found this video and thought it was post worthy.
Rather than fork out money for a tramming gauge you can use something like this to tram your spindle or router. (Plum or square the motor to the base of the CNC)
A wire hanger or heavy gauge ground wire could also be used by bending it into a Z shape.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 1, 2018 12:50:15 GMT
Good one. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 1, 2018 12:52:57 GMT
Made this a sticky.
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Post by ricko on Dec 20, 2018 14:41:46 GMT
I found this video and thought it was post worthy. Rather than fork out money for a tramming gauge you can use something like this to tram your spindle or router. (Plum or square the motor to the base of the CNC) A wire hanger or heavy gauge ground wire could also be used by bending it into a Z shape.  This is one I made, works great. I tram on a plate of glass on my spoilboard, Level glass with paper shims. I strive for .01" side to side, front to back. which comes out to about .001"/inch. |
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Post by aquanub on Feb 24, 2019 1:15:04 GMT
Just adding to whats already here. This is how I got the power route trammed by only loosening the rear router mount and using the front router mount to fine tune it.
Luckily there was enough slack in the holes to get everything positioned closely before surfacing the wasteboard. Ended up purchasing a dial indicator and an arm, but I figured these things would come in handy in the future.  |
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viddall
New Member
Posts: 33
Location: Maryland
Machine: Power Route
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Post by viddall on Mar 7, 2019 18:30:12 GMT
Just adding to whats already here. This is how I got the power route trammed by only loosening the rear router mount and using the front router mount to fine tune it.
Luckily there was enough slack in the holes to get everything positioned closely before surfacing the wasteboard. Ended up purchasing a dial indicator and an arm, but I figured these things would come in handy in the future. Hey did you make that vise I see hiding by the left of the machine? |
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Post by ksachse on Sept 7, 2019 15:08:32 GMT
I finally trammed my Carve King! I had been afraid to try it, after reading posts about how difficult it is to access the screws for the router mount (for shimming), and how hit or miss tramming was on the Carve King. However, after actually trying it, I am happy to report that it was not difficult at all! So I thought I would share these photos for anyone else who is unsure about trying to do it. And to share my cheap diy tramming tool based on the one in this post (thanks!).
My Cheap Tramming tool:
A cheap Level from the dollar store, a bolt/nut/washers, and a 1/4" mount from a harbor freight buffing wheel. The mount gave me a way to bolt on to the level and a good shank to use in the router.
Adjusting the Router Mount:
To easily access the router mount for shimming or other adjustment, I did the following,
1) Removed the router
2) Removed the two #10 screws from the bottom Z base plate (outer screws in the picture), and remove the Z base plate 3) Pull down the Z plate 4) Loosen the two bolts securing the router mount
You should now be able to insert shims or slightly adjust side to side!
Reassembly is literally just the steps in reverse.
Not difficult at all!!!!!!!!
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Post by Bruce on Sept 8, 2019 20:26:44 GMT
Good work, thanks for the post on your experience. Difficulty is in the eye of the beholder. 😊
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Post by wildbill9 on Dec 24, 2020 15:34:43 GMT
OK So I am trying to tram my Carve King. My question is what do I have to loosen and move to level it front to back. I believe the left to right is done by adjusting the router holder. I have made a tram bar that should work.
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Post by Bruce on Dec 24, 2020 23:38:46 GMT
Front and back adjustment can be done with a shim in the top half or bottom half of the router mount. Usually a small piece of paper folded around 1/8" or 1/4" wide and as long as the router mount should work as the shim.
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Post by wildbill9 on Dec 25, 2020 1:32:51 GMT
OK Thanks I will give that a try. My front to back was out about .032 of an inch. Left to right was close to a 1/8th inch. All I did so far I just unloosened the mount for the router and just leveled it left to right and got that with in .002 it also helped my front to back.
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Post by wildbill9 on Dec 26, 2020 15:42:22 GMT
I do not think I will get this to work. I am back to square one. I get one way real close then the other way is way off. Is there any videos out there on tramming the Carve King 1. I have seen some of the other videos and they are not the carve king.
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Post by Bruce on Dec 31, 2020 15:47:44 GMT
unfortunately there is no easy way to do this. One of the draw backs of a hobby cnc machine.
Get it close as you can and then level cut a spoil board for the bed. Then tram the router again. That should get you close.
It can be a laborious process.
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grandpa
New Member
After not using the mill wright for a couple weeks it refuses to connect! Please help.
Posts: 14
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Post by grandpa on Feb 18, 2021 20:30:43 GMT
Perhaps, being new to all this myself, I should keep my mouth shut, or fingers off the keyboard. I have a Mega V that has not made it's first cut yet. But I think I have it pretty close to being squared up to go. I know this may sound silly to you whom really understand all this , but this is what I did beyond just eyeballing it. 19" x 19" aluminum bed for the surface. If take a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 and cut all edges square off by table saw sled which is spot on square , and cut the correct height. Then with the wood on the bed, up side the router all the way around it ,!!!! should get you pretty close . Just a thought from an old guy,  Hopefully a few days from now, I will have the money to purchase V carve pro, I have been learning it , seems simple enough,, try not to over think this stuff |
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petek
Junior Member
Posts: 72
Machine: Power Route
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Post by petek on Feb 28, 2021 22:37:42 GMT
"If take a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 and cut all edges square off by table saw sled which is spot on square , and cut the correct height"
What do you mean by "and cut the correct height" ?
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