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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 2, 2017 15:37:48 GMT
I've designed this skull and sent it through dmap2gcode. Ran a visualize in UGS. Looks to me that my Z is going to plunge down into my top of stock about......well.....really deep!? Or is not and it just looks that way? I'm scared to even try it on my M3 don't want to crash it 😬😬😬  |
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Post by aforww on Jul 2, 2017 18:31:26 GMT
It's trying to cut it all at full depth of cut (DOC). Can you set your options to limit depth of cut or Maximum plunge depth?
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 2, 2017 20:20:48 GMT
Yes but won't changing max depth of cut change the actual extrusion of the skull? I have it set to 3/16 if I went to let's say 1/16 wouldn't the skull be sunk into the material?
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jul 3, 2017 18:57:02 GMT
What aforww means is that its not taking any stepdowns, but rather going to the max depth all in one step. I bet the top of the nose of the skull is close to the top of the stock, so it's just plunging down to clear out the rest of it. Can you screeen shot your dmap2gcode roughing and finishing settings?
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 4, 2017 1:23:44 GMT
What aforww means is that its not taking any stepdowns, but rather going to the max depth all in one step. I bet the top of the nose of the skull is close to the top of the stock, so it's just plunging down to clear out the rest of it. Can you screeen shot your dmap2gcode roughing and finishing settings? Derek, So I reset the max depth and it changed so it didn't plunge that far but the detail wasn't what I was hoping for. you can barely see the eyes and the teeth. I'm not sure how I can change that? any ideas? also I have grooves where the bit scanned across horizontaly and it looks pretty bad. so I'm guessing a roughing pass and a finishing pass is in order. But I'm not sure how to do 2 passes and with what bit and settings. I can screen shot my settings if you want me too. thanks |
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 4, 2017 2:06:41 GMT
Here is the beginning of setup. Havnt made any changes. Maybe you can guide me through how to get the best result. Thanks Derek.   |
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 4, 2017 14:09:32 GMT
Now every image I put into DMAP looks like this when visualized in UGS. Not sure what happen!?  |
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 4, 2017 15:22:13 GMT
Now every image I put into DMAP looks like this when visualized in UGS. Not sure what happen!? Well I figured this mess out. Had G code arcs selected in settings. |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jul 4, 2017 17:02:41 GMT
Good catch on the arcs. It just puts out arcs that grbl doesnt like.
Okay, onto your settings.
1) It's okay that your max depth be deep in order to give enough room for contrasting contours. You have a max cut depth of about an eighth of an inch, which is no good. I often make mine about 1/4" to 1/2" deep depending on what it is.
2) The "roughing depth per pass" will be how deep it goes in each step to get to your "max depth".
3) Your roughing step-over is okay at 0.04". An argument could be made to increase it some, but I think you are fine. Part of what is giving you bad results in the finishing step-over. Your finishing step-over is also 0.04", which is far to large for a 7"x7" carving. Depending on what I'm doing, I might set my finishing step-over to 0.008" or 0.01". This means it is going to take four to five times longer to run your finishing op than what you are doing now, but you will get superb results.
Finally, I'd be interested to know your process for making these files.
EDIT:
Also increase your feed rates. That's not as much of a work quality issue as it is about end mill life and job time. I would possibly finish that at 75 IPM or more depending on some different factors.
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 4, 2017 17:17:03 GMT
What bit should I be using for finish pass. And what bit for roughing? As far as the process for making these files. The skull, I had a friend do for me I think artcam was the program. The others I found on a Japanese site in a forum on CNCzone.com. There's like 6,000 files to browse through. I've only got through about 900 of them. I'll post a link when I find it again.
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Post by bowhntr7846 on Jul 5, 2017 18:01:52 GMT
I'm having success this morning! Thank you Derek and Aforww for the tips and tricks. Sure makes a huge difference doing that finishing pass! Thanks again guys.  |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jul 5, 2017 21:19:47 GMT
Woohoo!
Looking good. To answer your question on the M3 I normally used a 1/16 or 1/8" ball nose to finish a 3d carving.
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Post by aforww on Jul 7, 2017 4:49:39 GMT
That's what we are here for.  Glad you are making progress! I tried to make my emblems for my truck today..... Walked away from the machine to tuck my kiddo in. Came back to the machine locked out and apparently, my mill buried the bit then cut my emblem in half.  Speaking of which, Derek I need a new power supply lol. I found out today my heartaches have been because the power supply cord is finicky and occasionally it quits working briefly killing power. Z axis falls it hangs for however long then kicks back on continuing the operation with the cutter all the way down and obviously not in the right position lol. I'll probably just order another brick from the Amazon. Along with MORE ABS since I ruined my last piece. |
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Glad you are making progress! I tried to make my emblems for my truck today..... Walked away from the machine to tuck my kiddo in. Came back to the machine locked out and apparently, my mill buried the bit then cut my emblem in half. 
Speaking of which, Derek I need a new power supply lol. I found out today my heartaches have been because the power supply cord is finicky and occasionally it quits working briefly killing power. Z axis falls it hangs for however long then kicks back on continuing the operation with the cutter all the way down and obviously not in the right position lol. I'll probably just order another brick from the Amazon. Along with MORE ABS since I ruined my last piece.