End Mill Holder.

[aforww]

Finally got around to milling this today after I milled some box tops. Milled from 1" thick HDPE. Holds 48 1/8 cutters and 15 1/4" cutters. Even chamfered the edges.

[activereality]

Very nice indeed! That will definitely keep things organized.

Where is a good place to source some pieces to work on. Like HDPE or other plastics. I am pretty sure my local big box hardware store has some wood pieces, but I haven't seen anything from synthetics. Also, what are the colored rings on the bits?

Great project, probably gonna steal it.

Aaron

[aforww]

Jul 7, 2017 0:25:50 GMT activereality said:

Very nice indeed! That will definitely keep things organized.

Where is a good place to source some pieces to work on. Like HDPE or other plastics. I am pretty sure my local big box hardware store has some wood pieces, but I haven't seen anything from synthetics. Also, what are the colored rings on the bits?

Great project, probably gonna steal it.

Aaron

Those are indexing rings. Theoretically, they ensure that your Z axis zero doesn't change when you change bits as long as they are the same length. Some bits come with em, some don't. I reuse mine as some of my cutters didn't come with them.

I usually use eBay for my plastics. Or, tap plastics. What program are you using for design? I can share the file if you want it if you are using Fusion.

[Derek the Admin]

That looks good man. Did you helical bore it with smaller end mills or peck drill it with something a little oversized?

[aforww]

Jul 7, 2017 3:51:33 GMT Derek the Admin said:

That looks good man. Did you helical bore it with smaller end mills or peck drill it with something a little oversized?

Used a 1/8" cutter. 2D adaptive pocket on the 1/4" holes to .27 inches and 2D bore on the 1/8" inch holes to .129 inches. Then used an 82-degree countersink bit to do the chamfer on the holes and contour. The fit was perfect. It's a simple project but these days, I don't get much time to make my own stuff lol. Truth be told, the main goal was to do some experimenting with tool changes mid-operation without splitting the G-code files up and chamfering. 

[activereality]

aforww,

Yeah, I've mostly been using Fusion 360- But just to work on drawings (sketches) and then extrude them. I have gone in and made some g-code through cam and saved it- but mostly just playing with creating tool pathing. I am trying to get "versed" in working through each of these processes more, before the kind arrives. My goal is to try and reduce my overall learning "carve" so that when it gets here I am a bit more ready to make chips and breaks bits.

Thanks for the tips. I assume bit length is based on tool tip (cutting edge) to collet face? I've used squares to make those kind of measurements before, just in swiss lathes, same theory though... I think. Could probably do the same with a collar and locking key (set screw)- like a grub screw or something. As long as the ID of the collar was a good fit for the bit.

I'll have to check out those places for stuff. I want to cut my teeth on wood and plastic for a few months before really playing with any metals.

Thanks again!
Aaron

[aforww]

Jul 7, 2017 5:17:49 GMT activereality said:

aforww,

Yeah, I've mostly been using Fusion 360- But just to work on drawings (sketches) and then extrude them. I have gone in and made some g-code through cam and saved it- but mostly just playing with creating tool pathing. I am trying to get "versed" in working through each of these processes more, before the kind arrives. My goal is to try and reduce my overall learning "carve" so that when it gets here I am a bit more ready to make chips and breaks bits.

Thanks for the tips. I assume bit length is based on tool tip (cutting edge) to collet face? I've used squares to make those kind of measurements before, just in swiss lathes, same theory though... I think. Could probably do the same with a collar and locking key (set screw)- like a grub screw or something. As long as the ID of the collar was a good fit for the bit.

I'll have to check out those places for stuff. I want to cut my teeth on wood and plastic for a few months before really playing with any metals.

Thanks again!
Aaron

You're on the right path bud!

Bit Geometry is quite a few things. You have flute diameter, flute length, shaft length, shoulder length, radius, and then overall length. If you haven't already, I suggest you read through this, post millrightcnc.proboards.com/post/2045/thread. It will help immensely. As far as the depth stops you are talking about, I've been thinking about them lately for my 1/4" mills but I wonder how they would perform. Most of those are made for drill bits and thus, very low RPM. I'd be worried about the set screw design causing things to be out of balance and therefore increasing runout and bearing wear. I'll probably just mill my own out of some HDPE. That is why we own these things right? For making stuff lol.