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Post by kec-10238 on Jul 20, 2017 19:02:05 GMT
Anyone or does everyone mill down their spoil board to make sure the router/spindle is perfectly perpendicular to it (makes sure table/spoilboard combo is perfectly flat to router/spindle)
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Post by Hommer Woods on Jul 20, 2017 19:27:59 GMT
I am still a fairly new user but I just put a piece of MDF under my work and haven't felt the need to calibrate it yet. Not sure if the work I am doing will ever require that level of precision at this point.
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Post by kec-10238 on Jul 20, 2017 20:01:05 GMT
those with the big machines seem to follow this practice. Probably nothing worse than finding out your sign is engraved deeper on 1 side than the other - especially if its a 4'x 8' $650 piece of sign foam...ouch. Was just wondering if it was standard practice also on the smaller machines? It would seem to me that even if the table/bed was perfectly perpendicular to the router bit, BUT your spoil board was not the same thickness all the way around, it would effect the engraving results or even 3d results. Maybe it's just not noticeable enough to the eye to matter much. But think it would especially on shallow or small cuts and like hommerwoods said "precision" or fine line engraving.
Now as I think about it, probably wouldn't matter much if your work piece wasn't the same thickness all the way around either. Guess that would have to be milled off also if you wanted it perfect.
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Post by andrew on Jul 20, 2017 22:40:01 GMT
I have never done that. I usually just use a piece of scrap wood about the same size as what I'm working on and clamp them both down. Have never really noticed it being out of level, but I could see if you were doing intricate fine line detail work how that could be an issue..
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jul 21, 2017 2:22:17 GMT
I do on our full sheet machine, but not so often on the M3 or the Carve King. MDF is usually pretty darn flat and even thickness over a relatively short distance. In my view, you really need to split hairs on this kind of thing on a full sheet machine, on metal parts where sides need to be square to one another (but this is usually big mill work), or if you're doing V carving.
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Post by aforww on Jul 23, 2017 4:32:54 GMT
Glad this topic came up. I've been mastering GRBL 1.1F and the latest nightly of UGS-P 2.0. Specifically, the probing and work piece mapping. I found out that my table, when zeroed at the lower left corner, is 1.4mm low at the upper left, .4 low at the top right, and 1mm low at the lower right. When milling aggressively in stuff like Aluminum where tool pressures can get high, having a dead flat surface is absolutely a necessity. I do plane down my spoil boards. Especially now that I know my table is that far off at the corners. And FYI, the probing features are freaking awesome once you get it all figured out. Especially the mapping function that automatically adjusts your g-code to compensate for a not so flat table.
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Post by kec-10238 on Jul 23, 2017 13:48:46 GMT
guess I'll be milling mine down when i get it then as one of the things I planned to use it for was diamond drag engraving on brass and aluminum with it. and .04" could make a difference!
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Post by aforww on Jul 23, 2017 16:10:21 GMT
guess I'll be milling mine down when i get it then as one of the things I planned to use it for was diamond drag engraving on brass and aluminum with it. and .04" could make a difference! Actually, it won't be much of an issue, I think. All the diamond drags I have seen (at least the good ones) are spring loaded so that a constant pressure is kept on the point despite varying workpiece heights. |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jul 23, 2017 18:41:02 GMT
I'd also look, on the m3, at the position of the X rail and Y rails in terms of flushing to the top of their respective pieces if you have a 1mm difference accross the table. Though the beauty of planing it with the machine itself is that it then matches.
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Post by aforww on Jul 23, 2017 18:54:03 GMT
I'd also look, on the m3, at the position of the X rail and Y rails in terms of flushing to the top of their respective pieces if you have a 1mm difference accross the table. Though the beauty of planing it with the machine itself is that it then matches. I spent an hour trying to get the thing level lol. That's as close as I can get before I max the movement of the rails. Seems there's a valley running diagonaly across the table. Weird indeed. I't's especially obvious when using UGS-Ps mapping option. |
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Post by jkendall on Jul 23, 2017 19:40:37 GMT
I just milled mine down this morning. I was having issues of varying height. One quadrant of my board was a full 1.5mm higher than it's opposing quadrant. With all of the variables that go into this relative flatness, milling it down seemed like the best solution.
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Post by aforww on Jul 24, 2017 6:53:16 GMT
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Post by jkendall on Jul 24, 2017 12:22:50 GMT
It looks like you had the same thing going on that I did. What size bit did you use? My 1/4" didn't reach outside of the outer holes.
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Post by aforww on Jul 24, 2017 13:34:35 GMT
It looks like you had the same thing going on that I did. What size bit did you use? My 1/4" didn't reach outside of the outer holes. I used a 1.5 inch plaining/surfacing bit. |
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