Post by hweinfeld1 on Sept 3, 2022 1:49:29 GMT
You don't have to spend the extra bucks on the aluminum T-plate bed for you Mega V CNC, and you can still get T-tracks you need to hold down your work. I got this idea from other manufacturers stock waste boards. I have some photos that I tried to download, but seems like the group has exceeded its limit, so here are some written details.
1. I assembled the stock MDF bed, but didn't insert any of the T-nuts (don't need them)
2. I purchased 4 x 48" T-tracks from Amazon (about $45.00). They come with screws, which you can use. Or get your own M4x15 threaded hardware. In my project, there were 6 tracks with 6 holes each or 36 fasteners needed. I purchased a 3/4" straight cut router bit.
3. On my 19"x19" bed, I measured 2 1/2" from the left and right edges (supported) and spaced the tracks 4" apart. The center section between tracks was 5" instead of 4"
4. I cut 3 T-Tracks (all I need for my 19" wide bed was 6 tracks total) 1" from the ends and 22" long. That left the mounting holes (every 4 inches) symmetrical and one inch from each end.
5. Using a locking straight edge (from Bora) I routed (by hand) each of the slots 13mm deep. You could use a 48" carpenter's level and screw clamps instead of the Bora if you don't have one. The tracks are about 10mm thick. With a 13mm depth of cut, that left around 6mm under the tracks. My calculations were based on the depth of the screw heads under the MDF after assembly, which when tightened, are 3mm under the MDF board. So, I used the 3mm under the board dimension/depth for the top of the tracks.
6. I allowed for about an inch of additional routing length (24" total) at each end for the insertion of the T-bolts.
7. I pressed in the tracks, drilled small pilot holes and used the screws provided with the tracks to fasten the tracks down to the MDF.
***NOTE: You may need to check the actual width of your router bit, or buy one made for routing t-tracks. With only one pass of my 3/4" bit, I had force the tracks down into their undersized groves. The fit was so tight, it bowed MDF! I had to pull it apart and route another 1/8" out of the slot. Worked great after that.
Have FUN!
1. I assembled the stock MDF bed, but didn't insert any of the T-nuts (don't need them)
2. I purchased 4 x 48" T-tracks from Amazon (about $45.00). They come with screws, which you can use. Or get your own M4x15 threaded hardware. In my project, there were 6 tracks with 6 holes each or 36 fasteners needed. I purchased a 3/4" straight cut router bit.
3. On my 19"x19" bed, I measured 2 1/2" from the left and right edges (supported) and spaced the tracks 4" apart. The center section between tracks was 5" instead of 4"
4. I cut 3 T-Tracks (all I need for my 19" wide bed was 6 tracks total) 1" from the ends and 22" long. That left the mounting holes (every 4 inches) symmetrical and one inch from each end.
5. Using a locking straight edge (from Bora) I routed (by hand) each of the slots 13mm deep. You could use a 48" carpenter's level and screw clamps instead of the Bora if you don't have one. The tracks are about 10mm thick. With a 13mm depth of cut, that left around 6mm under the tracks. My calculations were based on the depth of the screw heads under the MDF after assembly, which when tightened, are 3mm under the MDF board. So, I used the 3mm under the board dimension/depth for the top of the tracks.
6. I allowed for about an inch of additional routing length (24" total) at each end for the insertion of the T-bolts.
7. I pressed in the tracks, drilled small pilot holes and used the screws provided with the tracks to fasten the tracks down to the MDF.
***NOTE: You may need to check the actual width of your router bit, or buy one made for routing t-tracks. With only one pass of my 3/4" bit, I had force the tracks down into their undersized groves. The fit was so tight, it bowed MDF! I had to pull it apart and route another 1/8" out of the slot. Worked great after that.
Have FUN!