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Post by breslinmr on Aug 8, 2017 1:53:49 GMT
So I'm so enoyed with this carve king it's not what I expected at all. NO it's so much more, I've been away from machine for a while and just done a decent test run. I'm overjoyed with the outcome very well done to all involved with this business a great machine for the money. This was just done on a scrap piece of 2x6 spruce and came out good just need to finish it now. Any idea would like to keep plain and simple maybe an oil So    |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 8, 2017 2:09:11 GMT
That looks great.
You scared me with the title. I took a big gulp before I clicked this thread thinking I was about to get a verbal thrashing from a customer. I was sure relieved to see it was actually a compliment.
As far as finishing.... what look do you think you want to go for?
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Post by breslinmr on Aug 8, 2017 2:16:18 GMT
That looks great. You scared me with the title. I took a big gulp before I clicked this thread thinking I was about to get a verbal thrashing from a customer. I was sure relieved to see it was actually a compliment. As far as finishing.... what look do you think you want to go for? Sorry thought it might get you attention lol. Cruel to be kind buddy 😉 Just a plain finish heard people using just an oil but can't remember name |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 8, 2017 2:29:36 GMT
I used to finish gun stocks with linseed oil and also sometimes tung oil. Is that what you are thinking about?
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Post by breslinmr on Aug 8, 2017 2:44:16 GMT
I used to finish gun stocks with linseed oil and also sometimes tung oil. Is that what you are thinking about? Tung oil that sounds like it. 👍 |
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Post by aforww on Aug 8, 2017 13:19:04 GMT
I used to finish gun stocks with linseed oil and also sometimes tung oil. Is that what you are thinking about? Tung oil that sounds like it. 👍 Just keep in mind two general types of "Tung oil" out there. If you order pure, it takes a month or so to cure. Most Tung oils are really a wipe on varnish. A Tung, varnish, dryer blend. An example would be the product called Danish Oil. I use Waterlox for all my oil finishes. Awesome stuff but expensive. |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 8, 2017 15:29:18 GMT
Nice insights Aforww
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Post by aforww on Aug 8, 2017 15:33:04 GMT
Getting into my primary hobby now. Lol. From rattle cans to rubbed out shellac. I've tried them all. |
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Post by kec-10238 on Aug 8, 2017 23:08:06 GMT
good to see what the King is capable of! Also Just noticed - No more "early bird" (pre-order) special for it. Glad I got in on it in time. How long did it take to "carve" that piece and what kind of bit(s) did you use? looks awesome.
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Post by breslinmr on Aug 9, 2017 2:12:20 GMT
good to see what the King is capable of! Also Just noticed - No more "early bird" (pre-order) special for it. Glad I got in on it in time. How long did it take to "carve" that piece and what kind of bit(s) did you use? looks awesome. it took 1hr 38 mins and i just used a vbit 90deg 1/2 inch. just one pass and was happy enough with the way it turned out. next one going to go a bit deeper. home all day tomorrow so going to do a couple more clocks , fingers crossed |
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Post by Hommer Woods on Aug 9, 2017 10:06:46 GMT
You might consider Tru Oil. It is for gun stocks. Basically tung oil but with some additives that make the drying time short. Easy to use and a very forgiving finish to work with. Takes several coats for a gloss finish.
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Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 9, 2017 10:07:17 GMT
I used to finish gun stocks with linseed oil and also sometimes tung oil. Is that what you are thinking about? Use linseed oil for guitar bodies - it looks great - add a little Japan Dryer to it and it'll dry/harden faster. |
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