Holster Maker Looking Some Info

[ShAne]

I make holsters usually with Kydex, or Boltaron. I am looking at the Millright CNC router. I would like to use it for trimming and doing some engraving some of my holsters. Maybe even cutting out some molds to use. Would one of these machines that MillRight offers help. I have watched most of the videos etc. 

[aforww]

Aug 19, 2017 15:06:02 GMT ShAne said:

I make holsters usually with Kydex, or Boltaron. I am looking at the Millright CNC router. I would like to use it for trimming and doing some engraving some of my holsters. Maybe even cutting out some molds to use. Would one of these machines that MillRight offers help. I have watched most of the videos etc. 

I've discussed this with a buddy that does kydex and leather. Doing any work after the holster is formed would be a pia. Fixturing it would be complicated.

Now, what it will do is decrease waste. You can cut out the kydex prior to forming to the exact size/shape for your mold and not have to trim excess. It also means less finishing work on the edges. Depending on the type you make, folded or two sides riveted together, you could design all your pieces into let's say the area of a 10x10 sheet of kydex and mill the whole thing at one shot. The design is always there and ready so huge Time saver.

As for engraving, what I would do is form a test piece, Mark the boundaries of the area to be engraved, reheat the kydex and flatten it. That will give you a 2d area to design inside. Then you basically take that box and sketch it into your design. From there you just put whatever you want engraved within those boundaries so you know exactly where it will be every time.

And yes, either machine will handle this.

[ShAne]

That's mainly how I would want to use it. That is after everything has been formed, so I can cut the same holster pattern over and over. I have seen what others have done is screw the shell down where the retention screws would go, so it would anchor it down to be cut around. Also, I vacuum form so the shell will be flat and then I bend it over lastly.

[aforww]

I'm not sure why they would want to cut after forming. I'll just say my buddy saw the light and went my direction lol. But he makes a ton of stuff from kydex so being able to use every available inch of material in a single sheet saves him material which saves him money. I think his last estimate was he was getting like one extra holster (two piece) for every two sheets of Kydex. So over time his saving are exponentially increased. The other part is you can stack layers of sheets and cut pieces for twelve holsters in one shot

Just gotta do what works for you. Either way, the CK and M3 are good choices. The CK probably being the better.

[ShAne]

I hear you, but I vacuum form membrane-less, he prob does foam press or, membrane vacuum. I do membrane-less vacuum, so meaning the kydex is the membrane. So, the frame presses the kydex to create a seal and gives in 10x better definition. Which you will have a little more waist which don't bother me for the better form and quicker cool down time. I after this form in pic below. I want to trim with the cnc to get perfect cut each time. Hope it makes a little better since. I am not concerned so much of waist just the perfect and same cut each time.
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[aforww]

Ahhh ok I see what ya got going. Yea he does the foam press. What you're talking about is doable but will require some very precise work on your part.

Every time you form your mold will have to be in the exact same spot every single time. The same when you put the kydex on the CNC. It will have to fall in the exact same location every time. When you design your tool paths, you're going to have to very precise and spend quite a bit of time with some calipers.

As for engraving, if you intend on engraving already formed sheets, you're going to be in for disappointment. You're going to have to 3D model the parts and it's going to have to be dead on accurate. That's going to be extremely tough. Especially for ones for a firearm that have little to no truly flat surfaces. I'd still highly recommend doing any engraving while it's flat. The holster you pictured might not be difficult after it's done but something for like a Beretta 92 or any subcompact will be dang near impossible without a 3D model. At least for quality results.