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Post by Hommer Woods on Oct 14, 2017 16:55:18 GMT
Been experimenting with using a V-bit for an inlay. I created the pocket and inlay using Cut2D Desktop inlay toolpaths. The pocket is 1/8 deep with a .04 pocket allowance cut in 1/4 Walnut. The inlay is cut from 1/8 Birdseye Maple. For both I selected a 1/16 bit but actually used a 30 degree V-bit to do the cut. I got the bit from www.precisebits.com/. Item # EM2E8-0945-30V 30° V tip scoring / engraving bit, 0.0945in carbide 101.20 20.24 spiral flute, 0.006in web @ tip,1.50in (38 mm) OAL, 1/8in shank Had to clean out the pocket a bit due to using the V-bit for the entire pocket cut. Most of the inlays I do are small so I don't mind that too much. Not quite happy with the results yet. Will order some 45 and 60 degree bits and play with the pocket allowance to see if I can eliminate all gaps. You can see some pics and video of the process along with the gcode files here: drive.google.com/open?id=0B--JQhAUtkeeM1BZaHlTNXNDaG8 Would appreciate someone letting me know if you are able to access the folder and files. It is a public folder on Google Drive. Attachments:
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Post by oliverc on Oct 14, 2017 17:22:38 GMT
Hi, yes the files are accessible.
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Post by Hommer Woods on Oct 14, 2017 19:34:18 GMT
Getting closer. Changed the pocket to do 3 passes as it looked like the machine was getting torqued around a bit trying to do it in 1. Also lowered the pocket allowance to .03. Maybe should try .02. Posted the new gcode file for the pocket. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B--JQhAUtkeeM1BZaHlTNXNDaG8Good enough for government work but not quite for commercial products. Attachments:
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Post by Bruce on Oct 14, 2017 19:48:59 GMT
Looks like you're getting there. No problem getting to the Google Drive files. So you're using the Vectric Cut2D software? I've been looking at the V-Carve Desktop software. Trying to decide if it is worth the investment. I've been working with F-Engrave so far and it really has all I need at this point I think.
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Post by Hommer Woods on Oct 14, 2017 19:59:44 GMT
I have been pleased with Cut2D Desktop so far. Mostly settled on it due to cost and the fact that most of my work is focused on inlays so far.
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Post by kec-10238 on Oct 15, 2017 0:29:58 GMT
Looks like you're getting there. No problem getting to the Google Drive files. So you're using the Vectric Cut2D software? I've been looking at the V-Carve Desktop software. Trying to decide if it is worth the investment. I've been working with F-Engrave so far and it really has all I need at this point I think. I like my Vcarve desktop. It's pretty easy to use.
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Post by kec-10238 on Oct 15, 2017 0:34:19 GMT
Is that what you typically use to do inlays - v-tips?
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Post by Jerry on Oct 15, 2017 0:44:40 GMT
I think the wood is too soft. So it is chippy. I think 2 hardwoods would improve the edge quality?
A downcut mill to improve on that?
I have never tried inlays, not the expert here.
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Post by aforww on Oct 15, 2017 1:30:18 GMT
I think the wood is too soft. So it is chippy. I think 2 hardwoods would improve the edge quality? A downcut mill to improve on that? I have never tried inlays, not the expert here. Try F-engrave for V-bit inlays.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Oct 15, 2017 2:06:42 GMT
That's a definite improvement. I'll check out all your documentation when I'm at the office. Thanks for sharing everything.
I think your next try will get it perfect.
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Post by Hommer Woods on Oct 15, 2017 16:54:22 GMT
Latest adjustments have it good enough for the projects I am working on. In the picture the bottom one is the final attempt. Went back to a 1/16 straight mill. I adjusted the pocket to .01 Pocket Allowance, Raster cut. The depth is .125. I slowed the feed rate to 10 inches per minute and put the 611 on its slowest setting. Stopped getting any tear out in 1/4 thick Oak. The inlay is in 1/8 Walnut. Slowed feed rate to 10 inches per minute. Changed to 2 passes with a final depth of .135 to ensure a complete cut through. There are two tabs that are set to .0625 length and thickness. The few gaps that exist measure less than 1/2 mm so I am happy with this for now. The latest gcode files are uploaded to: drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B--JQhAUtkeeM1BZaHlTNXNDaG8Attachments:
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Post by Derek the Admin on Oct 15, 2017 18:24:21 GMT
Nice job.
On the matter of gap allowance, I like to make mine tight enough so it's pretty much an interference fit and requires a little bit of mallet tapping to seat in.
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Post by andrew on Oct 16, 2017 14:26:45 GMT
On the inlay experimentation subject... I've been playing with using coffee grounds as an inlay material. Seems to be working pretty good. I should have packed a little more grounds in a few spots on this one, but the result is promising. Cut the recess put a little glue in there (I used white elmers glue), then pack fine ground coffee into the recess. let it dry and sand it off. Seems to work really good for small details. This coaster is about 4" diameter. Anyway, just another idea on making inlays for your arsenal of tricks.. Attachments:
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Post by aforww on Oct 16, 2017 14:31:12 GMT
On the inlay experimentation subject... I've been playing with using coffee grounds as an inlay material. Seems to be working pretty good. I should have packed a little more grounds in a few spots on this one, but the result is promising. Cut the recess put a little glue in there (I used white elmers glue), then pack fine ground coffee into the recess. let it dry and sand it off. Seems to work really good for small details. This coaster is about 4" diameter. Anyway, just another idea on making inlays for your arsenal of tricks.. I do the same thing with crushed stone. I'd recommend using a thin CA glue instead of the Elmers.
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Post by andrew on Oct 16, 2017 15:42:43 GMT
Yeah, elemers was all I had on hand that would dry clear... Instant gratification. I can't seem find the elusive CA glue anywhere around here (the kind with the spray activator I see people using). The closest place I can find that has it short of ordering from Amazon is like a 2 hour drive
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