jms
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Posts: 168
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Post by jms on Dec 27, 2019 3:53:14 GMT
I just did my first 3d model on Powerroute , first I did the rough pass.....and then thought ....OK...how do I get it back to zero in Z now that my surface is gone to do finish pass? I have no idea what to write in UGS, to do this, or even how to use the touch plate .
Thanks, Joe
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stever
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Posts: 133
Machine: Carve King
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Post by stever on Dec 28, 2019 1:02:40 GMT
I just did my first 3d model on Powerroute , first I did the rough pass.....and then thought ....OK...how do I get it back to zero in Z now that my surface is gone to do finish pass? I have no idea what to write in UGS, to do this, or even how to use the touch plate .
Thanks, Joe
I do not have a power route or a touch plate, but my thinking on this is that you would want to zero off of a constant, which will be your cut bed or spoil board. So your zero on your model should be on the bottom of your model, not the top. So after each bit change or operation you would re-zero off of the bed.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Dec 28, 2019 2:56:00 GMT
Stever is right.
You zero off a constant. That's the best way. Alternatively, you could measure your piece thickness before hand. If, for instance, it is 19.3mm thick then you can zero to the top of the stock, machine it away, then zero to the spoil board as Z-19.3mm
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jms
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Posts: 168
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Post by jms on Dec 28, 2019 13:39:14 GMT
OK, lets say I zero'd on surface of work, then carved it, and then I zero onto spoil board....do I type g92 x0 y0 z0, then type g90 g0 z-19.3 ? or do I have to originally zero from spoil board from the begining, and then how do I get to my starting point on my work? (I.E. corner) I have no clue how to write any of this gcode.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Dec 29, 2019 3:29:01 GMT
It is better to zero to your constant in both operations.
This is something that just takes experience and a lot of practice to fully understand. If you've already carved the work piece in a roughing operation I'd suggest doing what I mentioned before I'd you still know what the stock started as... Set the Z only to the spoil board with a negative value equal to the stock thickness. Don't enter X and Y values for this zero point or you will reset zeros for those values...
Have you watched my video on homing a d zeroing? If you watch that enough to the point that you could explain the concepts back then you will have these concepts mastered and be on your way to being a top notch MillRight CNC operator.
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jms
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Posts: 168
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Post by jms on Dec 29, 2019 14:03:46 GMT
Thanks guys, yes, I watched that video and many others but I need to learn what to enter exactly so I dont cause machine to go wildly on me. I see videos where people home their machine and they know how far their new zero is, how do they know that? My thinking is it could be 15 inches and 15 inches in x and y, but I don't think I would enter those values, so its all confusing to me.
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stever
Full Member
Posts: 133
Machine: Carve King
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Post by stever on Dec 29, 2019 15:14:26 GMT
Thanks guys, yes, I watched that video and many others but I need to learn what to enter exactly so I dont cause machine to go wildly on me. I see videos where people home their machine and they know how far their new zero is, how do they know that? My thinking is it could be 15 inches and 15 inches in x and y, but I don't think I would enter those values, so its all confusing to me. I’m confused by what you’re asking. Can you send a link to the video you are talking about so I understand? Thanks, Steve
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Post by Bruce on Dec 31, 2019 4:12:21 GMT
If you still have a piece of wood with the same thickness as your original workpiece you could zero the Z on top of it. I usually make the workpiece base material larger than the finish part so I have an edge to reset the Z axis on tool change. This also helps in clamping the workpiece down too.
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jms
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Posts: 168
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Post by jms on Dec 31, 2019 13:46:35 GMT
Bruce, yes I figured that, but the other day I did a 3d model, rough pass and finish pass, at the end it cut out the profile which left no edge height to zero off of. Now it didn't matter at that point in this instance, but I am sure in the future I might run into that situation. So I guess zeroing off of spoil board and subtracting material height would be the way to go. Just unsure of how to enter these movements in gcode. .....zero on spoil bd with the subtraction of material thickness, then go to my zero of work with a clearance height....
Joe
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stever
Full Member
Posts: 133
Machine: Carve King
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Post by stever on Jan 1, 2020 16:54:07 GMT
Bruce, yes I figured that, but the other day I did a 3d model, rough pass and finish pass, at the end it cut out the profile which left no edge height to zero off of. Now it didn't matter at that point in this instance, but I am sure in the future I might run into that situation. So I guess zeroing off of spoil board and subtracting material height would be the way to go. Just unsure of how to enter these movements in gcode. .....zero on spoil bd with the subtraction of material thickness, then go to my zero of work with a clearance height.... Joe I could be wrong, but I think you can set your zero on your model in f360 as the bottom left of your stock (bottom side of stock that is touching spoil board) then just zero on the spoil board. Then you wouldn’t have to do any subtraction. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 1, 2020 19:49:21 GMT
That is correct Stever.
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Post by Bruce on Jan 2, 2020 0:49:37 GMT
Before mounting the workpiece to the bed of the machine you can measure the material thickness with a digital caliper. Zero the Z on the bed of the machine and enter the material thickness as a negative number for the Z zero in UGS.
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Post by linkreincarnate on Jan 2, 2020 2:03:30 GMT
I think I can save you. First you need to return to your original zero if it's still there. Then measure your old tool stickout. Swap your bit to the new one and measure the new stickout. Subtract the difference in stickout from your z height to get the tip of your new bit at the position of the now machined away surface. (if the new bit is shorter if it's longer add the difference)
Make this your new Zero.
Measure carefully, err on not moving far enough you can always nudge it down if there is too much material left on the part.
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jms
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Posts: 168
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Post by jms on Jan 2, 2020 3:51:17 GMT
I like Bruces idea, ok, then what is the touch plate for?
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Post by Bruce on Jan 3, 2020 4:35:50 GMT
Just subtract the touch plate thickness from the material thickness to zero on the bed. OR subtract the touch plate thickness to zero at the top of the material.
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