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Post by aforww on Sept 17, 2017 14:43:03 GMT
Ok. THis is the way I would handle it. Adaptive is a 1/4" flat. Contour is a 1/4" round. You can adjust that accordingly. a360.co/2iLKYR6Where did you get that model - did you draw that? Nice job! Lol I think that one I pulled from some website but it needed some work because lines didn't match up and geometry was off.
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Post by VGCustomShop on Sept 20, 2017 8:40:34 GMT
Looks good. Feel free to post thse finished product. I finally put a piece of alder with a curly cherry top in the machine - the contour went fine. The pockets g-code file left all this at the bottom of the pockets. Didn't want to re-run because pic-sender lost zero and as close as I can get it - it wouldn't be perfect. So I have to clean this up by hand. Weird stuff - been routing junk would for a month and this is a new one. Could it be the Change from rough final to finishing passes - before the pockets looked a tad rough - but apparently the adjustments made them worse. Definitely got something set incorrectly.
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Post by aforww on Sept 21, 2017 1:30:26 GMT
That's definitely a setup situation. But I don't use picsender and honestly wouldn't use it on a project like this. PicSender can't lose zero. The machine does. That's what homing helps with.
It looks like it was done as a profile not a pocket.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 21, 2017 11:54:04 GMT
I also think it looks like it pocketed to a certain depth then profiled to final depth. That's what it looks like at least.
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Post by VGCustomShop on Sept 22, 2017 11:08:30 GMT
I also think it looks like it pocketed to a certain depth then profiled to final depth. That's what it looks like at least. I agree - going to start over on the pocket file. Have two guitars made using the machine that are currently in the finishing stage - I'd like to post the pictures when they're done. Many thanks for your expertise over the months - finally getting productive and having a bunch of fun watching the machine do work instead of me - and more efficiently. With regard to maintenance - is there a faq or post about cleaning and or maintaining the machine? Does one ever use dry lube on anything? Is there a proper way to clean lead screws besides compressed air or a vacuum?
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Post by aforww on Sept 22, 2017 11:26:05 GMT
I also think it looks like it pocketed to a certain depth then profiled to final depth. That's what it looks like at least. I agree - going to start over on the pocket file. Have two guitars made using the machine that are currently in the finishing stage - I'd like to post the pictures when they're done. Many thanks for your expertise over the months - finally getting productive and having a bunch of fun watching the machine do work instead of me - and more efficiently. With regard to maintenance - is there a faq or post about cleaning and or maintaining the machine? Does one ever use dry lube on anything? Is there a proper way to clean lead screws besides compressed air or a vacuum? I clean after every single job. I blow out the spindle, electronics, enclosures, everything. I use a dry lubricant on all friction surfaces. I check square, Tramming, etc about once a month.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 22, 2017 13:52:34 GMT
Good idea on the maintenance things. Spraying out is okay and a hint of something like 3in1 oil is ok on the lead screws. Please do not ever use WD40 on them though. WD40 likes to eat Delrin, which is what the anti-backlash nuts are made of.
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Post by aforww on Sept 22, 2017 14:14:29 GMT
Good idea on the maintenance things. Spraying out is okay and a hint of something like 3in1 oil is ok on the lead screws. Please do not ever use WD40 on them though. WD40 likes to eat Delrin, which is what the anti-backlash nuts are made of. Noooooo no oil! Devil stuff lol. I stay as far away from that crap as feasible. Everything sticks to it. Lol. I use this stuff on just about everything needing lubrication that didn't require heavier stuff like grease or oil. DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant, 14-Ounce www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6IFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QrXzbDT6VZAX
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Post by VGCustomShop on Sept 22, 2017 20:54:26 GMT
Good idea on the maintenance things. Spraying out is okay and a hint of something like 3in1 oil is ok on the lead screws. Please do not ever use WD40 on them though. WD40 likes to eat Delrin, which is what the anti-backlash nuts are made of. Thanks for the tip Derek - in general on other movable jigs and fixtures use dry lube (see photos of profiling and radius jig) - it is dirt and dust resistant - you can use it on blades and bits, radial and table saws, drills and lathes - just wondering if you're OK with it on lead screws - it is made by WD-40 but it is not the same product. Someday I'm going to figure out a way to motorize these jigs. . .
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Post by VGCustomShop on Sept 22, 2017 21:00:15 GMT
Good idea on the maintenance things. Spraying out is okay and a hint of something like 3in1 oil is ok on the lead screws. Please do not ever use WD40 on them though. WD40 likes to eat Delrin, which is what the anti-backlash nuts are made of. Noooooo no oil! Devil stuff lol. I stay as far away from that crap as feasible. Everything sticks to it. Lol. I use this stuff on just about everything needing lubrication that didn't require heavier stuff like grease or oil. DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant, 14-Ounce www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6IFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QrXzbDT6VZAXI use the WD version of dry lube - but it's the same or similar: www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/
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Post by Derek the Admin on Sept 22, 2017 22:14:26 GMT
Nice looking jigs! That dry lube will be fine.
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Post by Bruce on Sept 28, 2017 2:23:52 GMT
Thanks for the tip. I hadn't even thought about what to do for maintenance yet.
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Post by VGCustomShop on Oct 6, 2017 1:56:52 GMT
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Post by Derek the Admin on Oct 6, 2017 2:07:39 GMT
Looking forward to seeing it in physical form.
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Post by VGCustomShop on Oct 18, 2017 8:32:29 GMT
Looking forward to seeing it in physical form. Was getting tired of the t-style bodies so have been working on this one. The attached body is an original design that I've been building by hand for about four years - would like to mill it this weekend - but need some advice on lining things up so that when the body is flipped over it is in exactly the correct spot as - this has contours and pockets on both sides. Thanks for any and all input.
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