|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 26, 2017 9:20:50 GMT
Was surprised how smooth the sides are. Honestly a little prep, 220 sanding and it's ready for sealer. Have to adjust the settings in Fusion as it took too much off the sides (either the model or the CAM settings - will figure out which) also the first pass on the contour was a tad deep. Other than that it went very smooth. Need a dust boot - and better Fusion skills. But when the better half saw this she was very happy because of how much help is needed at the shop. The machine did 90 percent of the work - after just took it over to the router table and used a template bit to take of the excess wood attached to the bottom. Then went round it with a 1/4 roundover bit. Piece of cake. Had to change the video to not include the word "Tele" as it is a trademarked word - the new video is the same with the name changed.
|
|
|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 26, 2017 11:16:21 GMT
That's absolutely beautiful to watch happen. I used to attempt to play as a kid and I wasn't very good but watching it makes me want to build a guitar. Thanks so much for sharing that.
Also, let us know what questions you have on the fusion side. How much extra did it remove?
|
|
|
Post by Jerry on Aug 26, 2017 12:54:46 GMT
Super cool!
|
|
|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 27, 2017 11:08:31 GMT
That's absolutely beautiful to watch happen. I used to attempt to play as a kid and I wasn't very good but watching it makes me want to build a guitar. Thanks so much for sharing that. Also, let us know what questions you have on the fusion side. How much extra did it remove? So the model was off - checked it and not sure how - certainly just being new at Fusion - but it's way off. The size of the body by as much as 1/4" . . . the pockets 1/16 - 1/8 . . . lol It was the first attempt so not really surprised. Anyway, redrew the entire guitar, checking all of the dimensions and leaving out the roundover - since that's a snap with the table router. Next will try and put some contours - using the sculpting part of Fusion. First, this will need to be routed - since it is the correct size it will fit with the neck template. Here's a rendering of the new file and the Fusion link to it in white: a360.co/2xnMQma Update: here are some working models with the contours . . . Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by jreimers on Aug 27, 2017 13:49:49 GMT
I am so happy to see you have your king dialed in. That first attempt may have been off but as a non-expert in fenders it is beautiful to me. Really excited for you.
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 27, 2017 14:28:36 GMT
Here's some advice. It takes time but get rid of preloaded tool library. Measure and add every single tool you have. There can be slight variations in diameter and flute length between manufacturers and if you want to be accurate, you have to account for it.
|
|
|
Post by Jerry on Aug 27, 2017 18:57:38 GMT
Thoughts to chew on:
For the diameter of the end mill, it is really sticking out a long way. Tool flex. If you shorten up the tool some that is good. Caution, Doing that brings the collet closer to crashing in to the wood. The part may have taper. The bottom is bigger than the top from the tool bending away from the work. try to measure it.
Also since the mill flutes are not full length, you may find in measuring the .250" that the cutting flute section is smaller than the solid non fluted section. That will cause a lot of rubbing and tool flex. Some end mills are that way and some are not. I would expect to see burn marks from that. You could grind the solid part to releave just the required area, with a proper tool grinder. Or buy an end mill that is correct. An end mill that has full length flutes won't rub but is less stiff.
Shorter flutes like 1/4" depth might work well.
Grab the spindle, with the motor unplugged, and push and pull, to check for axis backlash, or excessive flex.
|
|
|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 27, 2017 22:52:14 GMT
Thoughts to chew on: For the diameter of the end mill, it is really sticking out a long way. Tool flex. If you shorten up the tool some that is good. Caution, Doing that brings the collet closer to crashing in to the wood. The part may have taper. The bottom is bigger than the top from the tool bending away from the work. try to measure it. Also since the mill flutes are not full length, you may find in measuring the .250" that the cutting flute section is smaller than the solid non fluted section. That will cause a lot of rubbing and tool flex. Some end mills are that way and some are not. I would expect to see burn marks from that. You could grind the solid part to releave just the required area, with a proper tool grinder. Or buy an end mill that is correct. An end mill that has full length flutes won't rub but is less stiff. Shorter flutes like 1/4" depth might work well. Grab the spindle, with the motor unplugged, and push and pull, to check for axis backlash, or excessive flex. Thank you for the tips - The contours are 1.75" - so the bit has to extend at least that far. A couple of the pockets are 1.5" The most shallow pocket is .8" During and after the rout there wasn't any bending or stressing of the router, mount or bit and no burn marks, no backlash. Short bits will not work for this kind of work - used the feeds and speeds Derek suggested and had great success - with denser harder wood will slow it down and use shallower cuts.
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 28, 2017 0:15:53 GMT
It may be your tool paths. I don't know how you've got this set up. 3D adaptive vs 2d pockets? It may be your tool constraints that are the issue. Could you share this file so I can take a look?
|
|
|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 28, 2017 3:46:58 GMT
It may be your tool paths. I don't know how you've got this set up. 3D adaptive vs 2d pockets? It may be your tool constraints that are the issue. Could you share this file so I can take a look? I'm not having any issues. Everything is working great - very smooth.
|
|
|
Post by aforww on Aug 28, 2017 3:54:35 GMT
Thought you said dimensions were off from the design.
|
|
|
Post by Derek the Admin on Aug 28, 2017 4:16:40 GMT
Nah I think he was saying the model was just undersized.
|
|
|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 28, 2017 5:29:31 GMT
Thought you said dimensions were off from the design. At first - but it turned out it was the drawing/model - have since redrawn and now all the dimensions are correct.
|
|
|
Post by VGCustomShop on Aug 28, 2017 5:39:52 GMT
I am so happy to see you have your king dialed in. That first attempt may have been off but as a non-expert in fenders it is beautiful to me. Really excited for you. Thanks jreimers - very excited as well. The machine is very precise. Checked the X,Y & Z with a steel ruler with 64ths on it - and it is right on the money - did this after squaring the machine as per Derek's instructions however. So what ever you tell it to do it does it very accurately. Also, the machine is very sturdy and solid - and very reliable. Can't wait to try some 3D arm and belly contours - which is next. There are many folks using machines like this for headstock and fretboard inlays and engravings, fretboard radius, neck profiles - there is almost an unlimited number of possibilities for it in a luthery environment. All of which are on the agenda for the future! Do you have yours yet?
|
|
|
Post by jreimers on Aug 28, 2017 12:52:04 GMT
I'm in the building process. I don't have the carve king. I have the m3. But for ukes I think it will suffice for the time being. I may have to upsize later but for now... I've seen people using cnc to do entire necks and of course contoured tops and bottoms for hollow bodies.
|
|