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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 2, 2017 22:48:09 GMT
I've been trying to insert (/thread through) both the short/long lead screws into either one of the four anti-backlash nut blocks (= i have the issue with all anti-backlash nut blocks). And since day one, i've been struggling big time with this. My issue is that, the lead screw won't go through both nut block holes (going in from either way) without the use of any big amount of strengthy force  I've had the lead screw go though two nut blocks, but the only way to make that happen was with force to press and hold down the (open) right side of the block with a tool (pure hand power won't do it), while using a lot of hand power threading the lead screw through. Even after passing through the hole, I need to use a good amount of strength to make it go further through. Left me with very sour hands and blisters. I figure at some point I need to put in the lead screw where I don't have space to brutally hold the nut block with some tool. I watched a video from another guy, where the lead screw almost flew through the nut block, so I figure, either mine are too tight or something with the angle goes wrong. I've tried different anti-backlash nut blocks with different lead screws - both screwed down and not (in free hand) - the struggle is the same  Any suggestions on what I can do? A little video to showcase: ps. am aware that the M5 jam + set screw (black one) at top is missing - took it off while trying to wrap my head around this |
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Post by kec-10238 on Oct 2, 2017 23:06:41 GMT
they should basically screw in one side and out the other fairly easy.try loosing the block then do it.
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 2, 2017 23:37:45 GMT
Yea, thats also what ive seen elsewhere. Its Sadly the same issue when its loose/ not screwed down. It wont go through. It seems that when trying to go through the open gap and into the last hole, it will bend up the tip of top part (that is when i try to use more hand power)
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Post by aforww on Oct 3, 2017 1:31:37 GMT
I think you might be crossthreadng it. Mine was stiff and I had to be careful that it threaded in straight. That's my speculation as it seems unlikely that all for nuts would have problems with the threads. Make sure it's going in straight. If you're having to force it, it's not.
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 3, 2017 8:33:15 GMT
I think you might be crossthreadng it. Mine was stiff and I had to be careful that it threaded in straight. That's my speculation as it seems unlikely that all for nuts would have problems with the threads. Make sure it's going in straight. If you're having to force it, it's not.
I could only hope that the issue was crossthreading... So today I put on my zen hat, and very patiently focused on slowly putting in the lead screw in a straight line. Turning the lead screw, so it "grabs on/into" the nut block. I tried approaching all 4 nut blocks (I have 3 on plates and one mobile/not attached yet) each with different lead screw (3 long ones and one small). No luck at all.
What I experience is:- I can usually find a grip to thread through the first part of the nut block (either starting from top or bottom) - HOWEVER, already here I feel great resistance from the nut block = I have to use a lot of hand power to thread it through - it's not a smooth threading movement at all. - When I need to thread through the second part it simply won't go through / find a grip - even with good hand force. I have one nut block, where it goes a bit "easier" through the bottom part, but same issue when it hits the second part. That being said, it's still not a smooth threading movement (which I assume it needs to be). I probably attempted to thread it through 30-40 times today (different screws, different starting point, in/out etc.) and more yestorday - guess I should've atleast hit some luck at some point (in case I was angling it wrong). |
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Post by aforww on Oct 3, 2017 9:00:43 GMT
I think you might be crossthreadng it. Mine was stiff and I had to be careful that it threaded in straight. That's my speculation as it seems unlikely that all for nuts would have problems with the threads. Make sure it's going in straight. If you're having to force it, it's not.
I could only hope that the issue was crossthreading... So today I put on my zen hat, and very patiently focused on slowly putting in the lead screw in a straight line. Turning the lead screw, so it "grabs on/into" the nut block. I tried approaching all 4 nut blocks (I have 3 on plates and one mobile/not attached yet) each with different lead screw (3 long ones and one small). No luck at all.
What I experience is:- I can usually find a grip to thread through the first part of the nut block (either starting from top or bottom) - HOWEVER, already here I feel great resistance from the nut block = I have to use a lot of hand power to thread it through - it's not a smooth threading movement at all. - When I need to thread through the second part it simply won't go through / find a grip - even with good hand force. I have one nut block, where it goes a bit "easier" through the bottom part, but same issue when it hits the second part. That being said, it's still not a smooth threading movement (which I assume it needs to be). I probably attempted to thread it through 30-40 times today (different screws, different starting point, in/out etc.) and more yestorday - guess I should've atleast hit some luck at some point (in case I was angling it wrong). Yea I would think you would have it by now if you were doing it wrong. I know one of mine was a tight enough fit I had to hold the screw with a set of vice grips. And spun the nut on. I wish I could be more help but this seems like an issue better suited to the admin he might know something I don't or I'm just not thinking of. |
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 3, 2017 11:22:04 GMT
I actually tried the vice grip trick yestorday but was worried that I was making scratches/marks into the screw that would have some unwanted effect at some point. But it didn't help much in my case. I feel I need to figure out how to make the screw thread smoothly through the nut blocks before I can proceed, else it will become and issue when im getting close at assembling the plates and need to insert the screw(s) again, in tight spots with less maneuvering space Tried going to a few local shops here in DK, to see if I could buy a new nut block for comparance, but seems like a very niche specific thing, so noone even knew what it was |
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 3, 2017 12:18:08 GMT
Update on a few things I tried: (disclaimer: I know this is probably recommended as a no-go - I gently tried using some sand paper within one of the tight nut blocks holes, to see if it could loosen up any possible conflicting edges - I put a tiny bit machine oil into the nut block hole, to see if the screw would slide easier through it No luck, same struggle |
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Post by Derek the Admin on Oct 3, 2017 12:35:28 GMT
I think the antibacklash nuts are fine as we've never had a bad one reported. I think we could clarify the technique for inserting them though. Notice when you start to thread it in and it comes through the gap to the other part it pushes on the left section and widens the gap. The concept behind this antibacklash nut is that the section on the left in your video is allowed to misalign slighty to preload itself to the screw and prevent backlash. It's just pushing it open and causing more misalignment than is acceptable for insertion. You can do two things here: Either stabilize the section on the left with your other hand as you thread the screw by pinching the two sections together slightly, or insert the screw from the left side. Hope that helps. Please let me know if you have additional questions about this.
Derek
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 3, 2017 13:49:32 GMT
I think the antibacklash nuts are fine as we've never had a bad one reported. I think we could clarify the technique for inserting them though. Notice when you start to thread it in and it comes through the gap to the other part it pushes on the left section and widens the gap. The concept behind this antibacklash nut is that the section on the left in your video is allowed to misalign slighty to preload itself to the screw and prevent backlash. It's just pushing it open and causing more misalignment than is acceptable for insertion. You can do two things here: Either stabilize the section on the left with your other hand as you thread the screw by pinching the two sections together slightly, or insert the screw from the left side. Hope that helps. Please let me know if you have additional questions about this. Derek Hi Derek, thanks a lot for the response. The stabilization part, is actually the only way i've had a little succes getting the screw through the nut - though as mentioned above, it's not possible to hold down the left side with hand, it requires a vice grip here atleast and quite a bit of bruteforce. I've only been able to do this with two of the nuts. What experience should I expect when threading it through the nut afterwards? When i've had luck with the above, I need to use A LOT of force and hand power to thread it through - I can't do this with my finger(tips). I acutally find myself putting on working gloves, since I need to put on a lot of pressure = it's hurting my hands. Something seems too tight with the antibacklashes if you ask me. But im not entirely sure of purpose with it all - if I just need to thread it through and that's the end goal, then I might be able to use a lot of bruteforce to achieve that - however if the end goal is that the lead screw would need to move back and forward in the nut (smoothly) - then that seems like an impossible thing to happen (with what im seeing) I'll try and proceed some steps and see if it will come and bite me |
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 3, 2017 14:37:25 GMT
I might try and see if im somehow able to get a hold of another anti-backlash nut block to compare (so far seems like mission impossible in DK).
Could someone confirm: Is the delrin nut needed suitable for > M8 (8mm) or M10 (10mm) lead screw?
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Post by Derek the Admin on Oct 3, 2017 15:00:58 GMT
It's an m8 with an 8mm lead. I want to be as helpful to you as I can, I just haven't dealt with what you're reporting. We will come to a solution though.
Did you try inserting the screw first from the left side (the adjustment side) of the nut? Try also to back off the screws holding it to the plate a couple turns. I suppose it is possible that clamping deformation can cause misalignment in that direction.
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Post by silverswarfer on Oct 3, 2017 17:54:31 GMT
Do you have any chips or swarf in the tapped hole? On one of mine I had to take some needle nose pliers and remove the swarf that was just barely hanging on as it gummed up the motion pretty significantly, but rotation seemed a lot better once it was cleaned out.  |
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Post by breslinmr on Oct 3, 2017 18:41:52 GMT
Seems I had the opposite problem mine went in very easy lol
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Post by mrsamdk on Oct 9, 2017 21:15:46 GMT
Just an update:
Derek the Admin > Yup, with all nut blocks I tried entering from both sides. My experience is, that the left hole is where things go "wrong" and gets crazy tight. I tried treading with the nut blocks not tighten to anything and issues aopear even here. Also moved forward having all nut blocks setup on plates, which would usually make things even harder.
silverswarfer > In some holes I did notice chips or swarf - and removed it. Also after treading, a couple of times new chips or swarf would turn up - I removed it though without any result.
I'm currently at the step where I need to assemble some of the plates and have the motor coupler and smallest lead screw line-up into eachother.
The only way I could get the lead screw all the way through the nut block was grabbing the lead screw with a vice grip and turn/rotate the whole plate, using quite some strength. But then I became aware that after putting this together, the lead screw should be loose enough for me to take my fingers and tread the nut block back and forward - which is sadly missionn impossible without the vice grip.
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