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Post by notso on Jan 8, 2018 18:05:30 GMT
So I have been having issues where it either cuts but doesn't finish correctly or doesn't cut at all how I thought it should. Time to try again.....and again... I have set this to cut with a ball end .125 size and carve to a shallow depth (I think). Does this gcode look OK to send to M3? I looked in V-engrave but There was no option to select the save format so it used the mach3 settings I think. (Only the beginning and a few lines after since if they look good then more than likely it will work the rest of the way..)
G90
G20
G17 P0.001 M3 S3000
F5.00
G0 Z0.2500
G0 X5.1349 Y6.6762
G1 Z-0.0012
G1 X5.1349 Y6.6762 Z-0.0012
G1 X5.1435 Y6.6978 Z-0.0068
G1 X5.1530 Y6.7232 Z-0.0209
G1 X5.1590 Y6.7472 Z-0.0625
G1 X5.1419 Y6.7722
G1 X5.1339 Y6.7792
G1 X5.1248 Y6.7848
G1 X5.1044 Y6.7910
G1 X5.0832 Y6.7899
G1 X5.0635 Y6.7818
G1 X5.0549 Y6.7754
G1 X5.0418 Y6.7586
G1 X5.0304 Y6.7249
G1 X5.0349 Y6.7026 Z-0.0297
G1 X5.0397 Y6.6799 Z-0.0162
G1 X5.0433 Y6.6744 Z-0.0116
G1 X5.0400 Y6.6759 Z-0.0143
G1 X5.0427 Y6.6675 Z-0.0084
G1 X5.0392 Y6.6731 Z-0.0125
G1 X5.0329 Y6.6581 Z-0.0049
G1 X5.0276 Y6.6477 Z-0.0016
G1 X5.0349 Y6.6626 Z-0.0068
G1 X5.0395 Y6.6830 Z-0.0178
G1 X5.0357 Y6.6996 Z-0.0274
G1 X5.0305 Y6.7167 Z-0.0472
G1 X5.0191 Y6.7278 Z-0.0625
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Post by Jason R on Jan 8, 2018 21:25:37 GMT
Sorry for not paying attention, 1) What program are you using to design? 2) What program are you using to send the Gcode?
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Post by Jason R on Jan 8, 2018 21:33:31 GMT
I visualised that code and it doesnt seem to be anything except a little area...
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Post by notso on Jan 8, 2018 22:41:07 GMT
Well I said it was v-engrave but it is actually F-engrave but outputs as mach3, so the only difference I can see is I had remove the entire G17 line then it sends just fine. UGS platform. Trying to cut the USMC shield, once I get it working I will get nicer wood than MDF since I have always wanted one of those shields but they always charge so much for them (and yes, I did serve, so it's not just because I like the look! hahaha) I just finished a ball nose test and it almost worked. So I changed to a 30degree (guess) V bit and recalculated tool paths and slowed the feed down from 10 to 5 (to keep from ripping the MDF) so ti will be an hour or 2 before i have any results since it is so slow. I will let you know!
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Post by Jason R on Jan 8, 2018 23:22:15 GMT
I have PMed you and will be sending you a link to help.
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Post by Mototech on Jan 8, 2018 23:44:26 GMT
With f-engrave I save my gcode files as "G-code File (*.ngc). Under settings, general settings I have the g code header with only G17 in that field and G code postscript with only M2 in that field. Haven't had any problems with these settings on my carve king and ugs platform. I'd recommend checking out the help tab in f engrave which links you to the f engrave manual. It really helped me with all the settings. www.scorchworks.com/Fengrave/fengrave_doc.html
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 9, 2018 6:05:27 GMT
Well I said it was v-engrave but it is actually F-engrave but outputs as mach3, so the only difference I can see is I had remove the entire G17 line then it sends just fine. UGS platform. Trying to cut the USMC shield, once I get it working I will get nicer wood than MDF since I have always wanted one of those shields but they always charge so much for them (and yes, I did serve, so it's not just because I like the look! hahaha) I just finished a ball nose test and it almost worked. So I changed to a 30degree (guess) V bit and recalculated tool paths and slowed the feed down from 10 to 5 (to keep from ripping the MDF) so ti will be an hour or 2 before i have any results since it is so slow. I will let you know! Do you mean 10 IPM to 5 IPM? That’s too slow and will burn up the cutter. If a v bit is causing a ton of tear out in mdf it may already be dull. You can expect to get some that an get cleaned up by a touch of sand paper. What RPM are you running?
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 9, 2018 6:07:27 GMT
Never mind... I saw your code. Are you running the spindle from PWM? If so you really need to crank up the RPM. The spindle has little to no torque at 3000 rpm and is just plowing material.
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Post by notso on Jan 9, 2018 15:39:41 GMT
No, the spindle is 12000, I am turning it all the way up. I removed the entire G17 line. UGS will not accept it as is. Once removed it worked, to some extent. It seems halfway through it shifted to the left a little. so lines were crossing that shouldn't but until then it looked great. I was using a ball but it kept dipping in too far, so I redid gcode for a Vbit. I am now doing another test using some advice from Jason in Aspire. IF my machine follows the cut path it should work, but again, nothing seems to go as it appears it should be!
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 9, 2018 21:27:56 GMT
I'd suggest just some basic movement tests. Make a divot in the material at origin. Do some test jogs in X and Y. Make sure you come back to that spot when you command back to X0 Y0
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Post by notso on Jan 9, 2018 21:41:21 GMT
Well I think I figured it out... At least some of the issue. The bed is not totally level I think. It cuts deeper on the right than the left. On this new test I am cutting (same thing but larger now) it 'chunks' the Y axis stepper. I also noticed it very lightly grazes the surface on the left and gets deeper on the right so i think it is going too fast for the bit to cut and getting 'snagged' then throwing the coordinates off Here is a video of what I mean www.youtube.com/watch?v=--84V-nDLU8Can't get the bed level..to eliminate the cables as an issue of propping up the frame I put little rubber feet on the bottom corners 1 on each board side so 8 total. So not it is still a little off but no idea how to square it, I have loosened all the stuff and it still will not square correctly.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 9, 2018 23:34:49 GMT
That's not normal. I studied the video. It's not really returning to zero. It is loosing steps in Y for sure then crashing back into the extreme of Y- . I tried to get my head around the "chunking" you are seeing in Y and I think it's one of a few things: Loose set screws on Y motor shaft. It is catching, then releasing, catching, then releasing. Voltage too low on stepper driver (IE: not getting enough juice). Fan not blowing on drivers, causing thermal overload and very momentary stepper driver Bad stepper driver (exchange with spare) Bad motor (extremely rare)
As to the leveling: The bed itself it pretty flat. The fix is going to be in the X rail and Y rails and where they get bolted to the frame pieces. There is just a little free fit in the holes there to allow for some adjustment. If the frame pieces are all dead flat to the table (a flat table) and the center of the X and Y extrusions are centered in the holes then it's all perpendicular as it should be. There's inevitably some error in where they are positioned and you can throw some things off a bit as you adjust each point. The standard practice is to get it "darn close" then just machine a spoil board flat with the machine itself.
Hope that is helpful.
Derek
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Post by notso on Jan 9, 2018 23:57:10 GMT
Well fan is not an issue, it is blowing right on them and high RPM. It is returning to zero, just the 'new' zero after missing the steps. if I only let it 'chunk' 2-3 times it is close to the edge, if I let it go farther around the loop it chunks more and is farther off. Since I have reduced the cut depth it does not really chunk any more so I think that is part of the issue. I am not using a true V-bit I don't think, I just bought a couple cheap dremel bits (Don't think this was meant to truly v-carve, just detail stuff) to use so I don't break a more expensive bit until I get how this all works.
(This is also part the problem as well I am sure...https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/125-high-speed-cutter) If I use the flat endmill it cuts OK without the chunk, but that is also meant for side cutting. You saw the other video of the starwars room plaque I made, went fine. Another issue I just had is the Y suddenly reversed itself! Worked fine, now it is reverse so had to change the connector on the shield again. (It was blue up, but was reverse so made it red up now it is back to blue up)
How would I machine out a spoil board? As simple as I am thinking? Get a piece of wood and have it mill it down to a few mm before the surface and that would be totally level, even if 1 side was, say, 3mm high and the other side was, say, 2.75mm but it would now be all level for milling. This would remove the issue you saw with the shallow cuts (as programmed) on the left but getting deeper as it goes to the right...
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Post by notso on Jan 9, 2018 23:59:13 GMT
Checking the voltages now...should be OK though. Might change the ship just to be sure but really look at the video, I think the bit is not meant to cut like that so it is getting stuck and preventing the Y from moving like it should. I am certain my issue is a combination of things. I will see if I can find a good V bit locally, but haven't had much luck with any 1/8" bits here, all are 1/4" (If you look at the vI am using it is barely angled and not meant to be cutting like I was trying)
EDIT Voltages are X 6.03 Y 6.21 Z 6.19
Edit of the Edit....
So I bought the flat endmill and the ball when I bought the machine. I never opened the ball, I used a cheap engraving thing that has an actual ball on the end of it. I truly think my problem is not using the right tool for the job. Going to redo the toolpath with the settings for the 1/8 ball I got from you. See if that makes a difference.
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Post by Derek the Admin on Jan 10, 2018 3:47:56 GMT
Oh wow, bud m I didn’t realize you were using that cutter. It might as well be a spinning spoon. I understand not wanting to break expensive cutters but they are just not something to go cheap on. They are where the rubber meets the road.
As far as the spoilboard milling.... it’s just like you stated. Ya hit the nail on the head.
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